Costume Jewelry Collectors Int'l

Book Reviews

 

Classic American Costume Jewelry, Volume 2 by Jacqueline Rehmann

Paperback, 288 pages, Collector Books, 2010

Review by Mary S. Laird

Recently, I was presented with a copy of Classic American Costume Jewelry, Volume 2 Identification & Value Guide by Jacqueline Rehmann. Being a woman of a certain age, I have been exposed to a plethora of costume jewelry of all shapes, styles, and eras. Approaching this review, it was my hope this book would help me develop a more sophisticated appreciation for costume jewelry in general, while being thrilled and excited during the learning process.

Much to my delight, Rehmann provided a wonderful experience of learning and discovery. Classic American Costume Jewelry, Volume 2 provides a good, basic overview/history of costume jewelry, with good sized full-color photographs coupled with clear descriptions of more than 1,000 pieces of jewelry. The table of contents includes plastics, wood, ‘40s gold and silver, and the wonderful "All that Glitters and Then Some" section.

The introduction covers the period from the 1930s through the 1980s in crisp, succinct terms, including the cultural, economic, and scientific issues that influenced costume jewelry. This main text was followed by more than 40 full-color photos of jewelry along with brief but very helpful descriptions of each.

In fact, the extensive descriptions next to each picture are one of the delights of the book. Many descriptions include interesting details or history about the pieces. The pictures are nicely sized, giving you enough detail to really see the piece (although sometimes a bit dark for my taste), so you get a good sense for how the piece would feel in your hands. To say the least, "a picture is worth a thousand words" and good descriptions are "frosting on the cake."

By far the largest section in the book is devoted to the use of plastics (celluloid, Lucite and Bakelite) in costume jewelry. The plastics section illustrates both the techniques and styling with explanation about how plastics were incorporated into costume jewelry and special sections on celluloid combs, combinations of plastics and wire jewelry, stones, and beads, and the development of plastics from the mid-century extending into the 1960s and onward. It features a wide and representative selection of colorful pieces, ranging across the spectrum of styles and forms.

In addition to the wonderful photography, the author took care to include very helpful tables covering the do’s and don’ts (methods) of testing your plastics, the titles of plastic reference books, how plastics are used in making costume jewelry, and the common trade names. There is also a chart tracing the development of plastics from 1845 through 1985.

The section on wooden jewelry is detailed and interesting. It includes an impressive selection of examples from the ‘30s and ‘40s, with a nice selection of the well-known Scottie dog of the ‘30s. Also featured is wood incorporated with plastic and other materials.

The ‘40s in Gold and Silver section discusses design themes (bows, ribbons) typical of this era and the sparse use of rhinestones. The author also gives the reader an understanding of how wartime shortages affected the costume jewelry industry and how to identify jewelry made from this period. The information in this section is helpful to new and experienced collectors alike, and can give one new appreciation for a budding collection. For example, the section about how to use designer patents as a valuable research tool is a must read.

The final and next largest section, All That Glitters and Then Some, covers rhinestones, copper jewelry, Egyptian revival jewelry and wonderful Christmas jewelry. Again, the photographs are lovely and the descriptions clear and concise.

One of the treasures of the book is the extensive (alphabetical) "Buyers Table" listing the manufacturer/designer, date of operation, signature/marks, and description/characteristics. It offers a well-researched overview of the major manufacturers that serves as an outstanding reference for the big picture of the industry. What a wonderful tool this is, particularly for someone like me who is avidly learning about costume jewelry.

It is hard to believe that so much information is packed into less than 300 pages. It is apparent that the author’s dedication to and knowledge of the subject matter is vast. This is definitely a research tool I will return to again and again as it is a library in itself.

 

Warman’s Jewelry, 4th Edition by Kathy Flood

Paperback, 288 pages, Krause Publications, 2010

Review by Carolyn N. Davis

I have certain expectations of a jewelry book. When I started collecting 13 years ago, I didn’t know much about jewelry. I joined the former Vintage Fashion and Costume Jewelry (VFCJ) club and volunteered to write a column. I believe one should know what one is talking about before opining or reporting to others. And, since reading is a great way to learn, I have accumulated a small library of these books.

So what’s my first expectation? Primarily, it’s that a book will teach me something new. I certainly don’t claim to know it all, but isn’t learning exciting? This is especially true if it is about a subject we all dearly love. A book should also be arranged in such a way that you can find a piece, maker or style of jewelry by looking through the table of contents or index. Some books showcase hundreds of pieces of beautiful jewelry over dozens of pages but it’s very difficult to reference the one piece you want to find. It also helps that the jewelry is in full color and photographed so that you can see the details of materials and construction. I want to see the color radiating in artful stones, the brilliance of enamel, and the richness of metalwork. Estimated values should reflect the current market; not an inflation of an author’s collection. Basically, I’m looking for relevant guides for buying and selling.

One of the books in my library is Warman’s Jewelry, 3rd Edition by Christie Romero. Many knew Ms. Romero as a jewelry historian and this book covered three centuries of both fine and costume jewelry. A book of this encyclopedic nature should be in every jewelry collector’s library. Sadly, Ms. Romero passed away last year and her talents and knowledge are missed. I wondered who would be courageous enough to step into her shoes and continue to educate us with another edition of this book. Kathy Flood did just that, and she has given us Warman’s Jewelry, 4th Edition.

When I received my copy of the book, I enjoyed hearing the spine crackle as I fanned the pages and the printing fumes wafted from within. (I love books; no e-readers for me.) Beginning my perusal, I first looked at all the pictures of the wonderful jewelry included and noted pieces I have not seen before. There were a number of them. Next, I wanted to know what Kathy wrote in her introduction; why did she write this book and how did she write it? I learned that she wrote it because she loves jewelry and she wanted to learn more about it. I was amused that she expects much the same from a jewelry reference as I do. She described the reasons more concisely, each of which guided her writing style. She also states that her edition is different from Ms. Romero’s because "every author has to make her own way." If you are looking for a fourth edition continuation of the first three, you won’t find it here.

What you will find is refreshing, just not as exhaustive as past Warman’s editions. Ms. Flood writes like a storyteller and reveals her uncertainties about cameos and period jewelry in the chapter titles. The chapters unfold like a journey as she tells us what she has learned along the way. She also tells us about the people she’s met including the famous, historical figures, artists, and fellow collectors. There are also little stories, facts, lists, definitions, interviews, questions, and answers that punctuate each chapter. The prefix section called "Chapter Previews" serves as supplementary content to the chapter subjects. Three hundred years of jewelry are discussed, in addition to materials (as in pearls, diamonds, beads, and silver) and style periods. At the journey’s end, I found an enhanced appreciation of the jewelry covered.

All in all, I found this book to be educational. There are people whom I haven’t met in other vintage jewelry books including the founder of the Pearl Society and an avid jadeite collector, among others. There are also new facts and tidbits about familiar subjects shared here. The index provides a thorough reference to locate people in the book, while the table of contents is better for locating jewelry. The jewelry photographs, for the most part, are large enough to examine details. However, reverse construction views are absent and would have enhanced the reader’s ability to examine some of the jewelry further. The values are in bold and the costume jewelry prices reflect the current market. Some of the fine jewelry prices are eye-popping, but so are the pieces!

I enjoyed this book because my expectations were met. I think you will too.

 

Vintage Wristwatches by Reyne Haines

Hardcover, 256 pages, Krause Publications, 2010

 

Reviewed by Jay B. Siegel

I love watches. In a day and age where young people largely refer to displays on their mobile phones to tell time and watch sales are down worldwide, there are those of us who consider watches to be elegant, functional, sophisticated pieces of fine jewelry. A fine watch can accurately tell time in a way that no mobile phone can. The pride of ownership of a fine timepiece is unmatched by any other means of timekeeping. It’s for people like us that this book was written.

Watches are very visual, and sometimes even visceral objects. All watches can tell time, some more accurately than others, but that’s not what they are all about. Watches are jewelry, and watches can be art. Fine watches are feats of engineering, ingenuity, miniaturization and finely crafted handiwork.

There are several ways to appreciate the beauty, elegance and marvel of a fine watch. Whether it’s on the wrist of the proud owner, in the window of a jewelry store, or from afar on another watch-wearer’s wrist, the lover of fine watches will always take notice. Another way to appreciate the art and design of watches is through a book like “Vintage Wristwatches” by Reyne Haines.

This book is not insubstantial at over 250 pages; it measures approximately 8 ½ by 11, weighs in at over two and a half pounds, and is printed on quality stock. But even though it’s a hefty text, this book lets the watches do the “talking.” Rather than a lot of verbiage to read through, the book consists mainly of high quality photographs of what timepiece aficionados want to see: watches. After a brief forward, the author introduces the reader to identifying and evaluating watches as well as valuing them. After those eight pages, it’s on to the watches.

The watch section of the book is laid out in a very simple, easy to follow format. In alphabetical order, Haines takes us through a brief textual overview/history of each watchmaker. After the overview, the reader is treated to the mostly excellent photographs of watches representative of each particular brand. The captions consist of a description of the watch, a value and an acknowledgement crediting the owner of the watch. All the major watchmakers of note are represented. There is a short glossary of terms and index after the watch section.

It’s also important to note that as the author points out, and rightly so, values are a tricky thing. A watch, like almost anything offered for sale on the secondary market, is worth what someone is willing to pay for it on any given day. That being said, Haines informs us that most of the values quoted in her text were taken from auction results. Considering that the copyright of the book is 2010, most of the values should be pretty recent but we should always keep in mind that auction results can vary from coast to coast and can easily be skewed by bidding wars.

And truthfully, what this book comes down to is eye-candy for the lover of fine vintage watches. It’s all about the photographs. The book is well laid out and the design is uncluttered, neat and presented in a way that nothing detracts from the pictures of these fine timepieces. The background of every page is white allowing the watches to stand on their own. Picture sizes vary, as does their layout on the page. This keeps the book interesting from a design perspective, yet it looks neat and orderly. The person who appreciates fine watches will look forward to the adventure and excitement of turning each page and seeing what awaits their discovery.

Paging through this book, the person who uses their mobile phone as a watch won’t “get it” and that’s perfectly fine because this book wasn’t created for them. It was created for someone who gets excited viewing a vintage Patek Philippe or Rolex. Omega fans are also in luck, since this brand gets the widest coverage in the book along with a huge cover photo featuring a classic Seamaster.

In conclusion, I really enjoyed this book. It is informative, well thought out and nicely designed. The company overviews are just long enough to give some insight into the brands and they would be a good starting point for further research, if one were so inclined. The photos are well done and let the reader get a good feel for what the actual watch looks like. I recommend “Vintage Wristwatches” as a valuable addition to the library of a watch collector, or even the more casual watch enthusiast.

 

 

Purchase Ann's book directly here: 

“JULIANA JEWELRY REFERENCE” by ANN PITMAN

Hardbound, 320 Pages, Collector Books, 2010

 

Reviewed by Mary Ann Docktor-Smith

 

Ann Pitman’s new book, “Juliana Jewelry Reference” has something for everyone. Do

you like looking at tons of great photos of dazzling vintage costume jewelry? Do you

have an interest in vintage jewelry history? Are you a DeLizza & Elster AKA “Juliana”

collector or dealer? This book is for each of you! I typically think of the jewelry books

in my library as being primarily either “picture” books or “reference” books. Ann has

done a masterful job of creating a book that admirably fills both of these categories.

“Juliana Jewelry Reference” begins with insightful and interesting information and

history about the jewelry and about DeLizza & Elster as a company. The bulk of the

book is organized into sections that highlight particular designs and types of D&E

jewelry, illustrated with multiple photo examples of fronts and backs, and also enlarged

photos of stones, beads and elements. Uniquely, each section and each photo has

extensive commentary describing the design elements including details, dates and correct

terminology. And I’m not talking about a few sections; there are hundreds of these

pages.

Most people familiar with D&E jewelry think immediately of showy rhinestone pieces

identified by open-back stones, figure-eight “puddling” and five-link bracelets. Well,

you’re in for lots of surprises including belts and ear wraps and chatelaines and many

pieces without a single rhinestone and others without a single open-back stone in sight.

Not to mention cameos, beads, scrollwork, rivets, transfers, multi-prongs, twisted metal,

plastics, enamels and much, much more.

Since D&E jewelry was never marked with the company’s name, this book is an

invaluable tool for identification using the photos and the commentary to cross-reference

types of stones and other decorative elements, styles of findings such as hooks, clasps,

earring clips and other components. Specific styles of texturing, riveting and some

unique design features can be used as important identification clues. As any experienced

collector or dealer can attest, an unmarked piece of jewelry can never be identified by a

single element, but has to be examined in its totality. This book provides all of the tools

you’ll need for accurate D&E identification.

One of the wonderful side benefits of the book is that it contains so many D&E designs, I

would dare any collector or dealer to NOT find something on these pages that they did

not realize was a D&E piece.

With its amazing eye candy and excellent educational tools, “Juliana Jewelry Reference”

is a must-have book for all who have interest in vintage costume jewelry.

 

Copyright © 2010 Mary Ann Docktor-Smith – All rights reserved.