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CJCI Magazine

 

 

 

 

Summer 2010 - Vol. 1, Issue 2

CJCI Exclusive Presentation:

Judith Hendler: Past, Present and Future

 

 

 

 

 

 

Discovering Hendler’s Past

by Erik Yang

In my fledgling days as a vintage jewelry dealer, a friend and I came to Dallas to sell at my first official antiques show. The vendor across from us had a dizzying array of merchandise, but one piece caught my attention: an unsigned tubular clear necklace with a huge hot pink prism drop. I asked the vendor how much, and she replied "I bought that at Saks 10 years ago and I’d like to get back what I paid, $45." I scraped together what funds I had and scurried down the aisle with my new mystery jewel. It wasn’t until a few years later when I found another piece with its original paper tag that I discovered the maker.

After years of admiring the work and showcasing it on my website, imagine my surprise when I a got a call from a puzzled lady inquiring where I had purchased the bold mink Lucite necklace on my home page. When I asked why she needed to know, she said "…because I made that necklace, I’m Judith Hendler!"

Over the years I’ve learned of many an artistic venture Judith’s had in her career, none of which surprise me considering she was surrounded by creative people in her formative years. Her mother, an aspiring costumier, created avant-garde ensembles for Judith’s aunt who was dancing at the time. Judith says "the designs rivaled Chanel," and the duo even attempted to open a design business. Unfortunately, the times were different for an aspiring female artist back then, something Judith would also encounter and later conquer.

It wasn’t until a then small company, Neutrogena, hired her as art director that she would begin to flourish. In those days, Judith oversaw all product design, including everything visual.

However, it was behind the scene tasks like product forecasting, treatment of employees, quality control and, most importantly, customer service, that formed the core of her business.

While on a project for Neutrogena, she crossed paths with one of the most influential people in her life, Herb Ritts, a furniture designer and manufacturer working primarily in acrylic and rattan. They later married and after six years at Neutrogena, Judith left to pursue a career in commercial art.

She had a lucrative run creating original art prints for hotels and office spaces. She also assisted Herb by designing small acrylic home accessories which were heated and shaped in the same ovens used to dry her hand made art paper. She spent almost a year creating rather ambitious 15-foot paper sculptures which were displayed in a show in 1983. Judith wanted "to wear something spectacular to the opening," so she designed a necklace using fragments of acrylic she repurposed from the scrap barrels of the Ritts Company studios. This first Acri-Gems jewel garnered more attention than her colossal sculptures! It was then Judith decided to be a jewelry designer.

After creating a small collection of samples, Herb encouraged her to approach the stores with her product. He gave her a slick burgundy attaché to house her jewels, and off she went to New York. The once eager designer returned to California devastated after being rejected by every retailer she approached. She didn’t give up, however, and continued to craft large, clear limited edition pieces.

Wearing one of her designs, she ventured into a fabric store in search of material for pouches. A dapper gentleman took notice and asked where she got her necklace. She gave him her card and went back to selecting fabrics. When the gentleman left, the store owner excitedly said, "Don’t you know who that is? That’s Nolan Miller, the costume designer for Dynasty!" Judith chased him out to the parking lot and made arrangements to bring samples to ABC studios. They unpacked the shimmering prisms and spread them over the studio floor when Joan Collins walked in exclaiming, "My god, what is that? Let’s get some for Alexis!"

Her pieces soon got deserved attention and were used in many television shows of the time including Knot’s Landing, Days of Our Lives, and Hotel. Judith Hendler’s Acri-Gems have been collected by prominent celebrities and featured in all major industry magazines including Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, and Vogue. The legend continues with her vintage pieces appearing in many of today’s fashion magazines, on websites, and in numerous blogs.

 

 

 

Appreciating Hendler in the Present & Future

by Matt Burkholz

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Erik and I both have loved Acri-Gems as vintage collectibles for more than 15 years. We are both drawn to these designs featuring Zen-like simplicity, space age sleek styling, and the brilliant translucent lucidity of high quality acrylic, glowingly geometric yet utterly elegant.

Upon meeting Judith, Erik and I both found a kindred artistic spirit and friend, and commenced, each on an individual basis, to evolve professional relationships which allow for lots of give and take in the selling of these wonderful vintage jewels on the secondary market. Reopening my longtime business, reborn as Route 66 West, I hosted a store event zanily titled: Plastica Luxuria: Tangible Testament to the Utter Opulence of Man-made Material. At this cocktail party and exhibition, a large selection of vintage Acri-Gems was presented to a wildly enthusiastic clientele hungry for fresh, contemporary-yet-vintage designs.

Judith attended personally, as did 50 to 75 other Palm Springs fashionistas and collectors who thoroughly enjoyed the desert night air and talking with the artist one on one as they watched her etch her signature onto neckrings of vintage pieces which previously bore a tag rather than a permanent marking. Everyone felt they were on the wave of an exciting new retro style from the early ‘80s being recapitulated in the 21st century.

Both Erik and I are excited to assist with the launch of a group of new Judith Hendler designs with the coming fall 2010 season. Categorically proclaiming the lines would all be devoid of color, starkly illuminates the long time popularity of water clear and frosted clear acrylic for Judith as an artist. Initially, she has created a men’s line of jewels incorporating sleek neckrings reinterpreted in sterling silver as well as restated in clear and frosted acrylic with no embellishment at all. This austere, wholly masculine approach with tubular interchangeable barrels in the same materials can be combined dependent upon the wearer’s daily whim.

After the Men’s line, a unisex group of jewelry is planned, followed by a women’s collection reinterpreting and expanding concepts from Judith’s vintage designs. New materials such as modernistic asymmetrical baroque pearls, combinations of textured frosted and clear acrylics, and Asian influenced carved bone and natural ethnographically styled amber will be introduced taking Judith’s designs into new realms of jewelry style.

We can all look forward to limited edition, signed examples of Judith’s new work in the year to come, with fashion shows, stylist shoots, and exhibition-openings introducing the public to a classic vintage artist’s new vision. Watch for announcements from Erik Yang at theLushLifeAntiques.com, Matt Burkholz at route66west.com, and Judith Hendler at judithhendler.com for details regarding events featuring new Hendler lines (and perhaps a retrospective book) as they emerge.

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Summer 2010 - Vol. 1, Issue 2 use the Buy Now button below

 

In this issue of CJCI Magazine:

  • Remembering the Legendary Joan Castle Joseff
  • Judith Hendler: Past, Present and Future   
  • Sherman: Enduring Elegance
  • A Mother's Legacy Lives On
  • Book Review – Vintage Wristwatches
  • Regional Club News & Events
  • CJCI Scrapbook – Farewell to a Friend
  • Jewelry as Art – Selections from The Thomas Portzline Collection

 

 

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