Researching Costume Jewelry History, Companies, Signatures “B”

Costume Jewelry Collectors Int’l
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Researching Costume Jewelry

 originally published by Dotty Stringfield on IllusionJewels.com

 

Jewelry History – Jewelry Research – Jewelry Marks – Jewelry Signatures – Jewelry Articles – Jewelry Galleries

 

COSTUME JEWELRY MARKS – B*

 

Information and images contained in Researching Costume Jewelry (RCJ) were created by Illusion Jewels and are currently maintained and updated by Costume Jewelry Collectors Int’l (CJCI). Written permission by CJCI is needed to use any information obtained from RCJ in any other publication whether written or electronic.

 

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B

— See BUGEE AND NILES

 

“B”  — See BALLOU

 

“B” inside a star — See BALLOU, B. A.

 

“B” inside a crown

• Mark:   “B” inside crown shape   Photo courtesy Plenty O Jewels.
• This mark was seen in combination with DRGM on a piece of jewelry, which tells us it is a German mark.

 

B.A.B. — See BALLOU

 

B.B. Greenberg — See GREENBERG

 

— See BLISS BROS.

 

BB with image of a bee — See BLISS BROS.

 

 — See BLISS BROS. Small “B” and “Co” within a large “B”   

 

— See BLISS BROS.

 

  — See BINDER BROS

 

— See BENNETT, E.A.

 

— See BARKER & BARKER

 

— See BARRASSO & BLASI

 

— See BASKIN BROTHERS

 

— See BASKIN BROTHERS

 

  — See BASTIAN BROS.

 

— See BASTIAN BROS.

 

— See BATES & BACON

 

— See BATES & BACON

 

Two interlocked “b’s” in a triangle    — See BERMAN BROTHERS

 

B B in an oval    — See BIOREN BROS.

 

Vertical B over B under an inverted “V”    — See BARNABUS BARNA

 

B & C — See BISHTON

 

B & N Co. — Bugbee and Niles Co. — 1896-1943

 

B. DAVID — See DAVID, B.

 

— See BURR, PATTERSON & CO

 

BADE, OTTO R. — NY — 1958

• Mark:   ORB     Courtesy Dana Ricci, ID: canam88
• Founded by Otto Bade who was plant foreman for Rebajes from 1941 to 1958. He purchased Rebajes in 1960; retired in 1981.

 

BAER, MARJORIE — San Francisco, CA — late 1960s to present (05)

• Mark:   BAER SF   
• Specializes in unique, hand-crafted jewelry.

 

BAER, WILDE COMPANY — Attleboro, MA

• Mark:   Kum-A-Part   Photo courtesy David Pritchett.
• Ads in JC & K from 1915 to 1931.

 

BAL-RON COMPANY, INC. — Providence, RI

• Mentioned in JC Keystone in 1950 & 1965
• An ad in 1959 mentions cultured pearls, onyx, scarabs,cameos set in 10k & 14k. (Rainwater)
• Mark:      Photo courtesy Linda Lange.

 

BALENCIAGA — c. May 1963

 

BALFOUR, L.G. — Attleboro, MA; then Austin, TX in 1966 — 1913 to present

• Mark:   LGB – 1944
• Mark:   BALFOUR – 1913
• Products include: class rings, military insignia, achievement awards, fraternity & sorority jewelry.
• Founded by Lloyd Garfield Balfour.
• 1996 – Balfour combined with CJC Holdings, Inc. to form a new company, Commemorative Brands, Inc.

 

BALLET JEWELS, INC. — NY,NY — ? –present

• Mark:   Ballet     Photo courtesy Alison Gadberry.
• Owned by Harold Bass, and then his son Tommy Bass.

 

BALLON, HARRY — Harry Ballon & Company — Providence, RI

• Mentioned in JC Keystone in 1922 & 1931.
• Mark:   Truli Fine 1944; used on men’s and women’s jewelry.

BALLOU, B. A. — Providence, RI — 1876-present

• Mark:   “B” within a star — 1894; renewed 1989       Courtesy Stephanie Brawner
• Mark:   B.A.B. – 1908; renewed in 2004  
• Mark:   “P” within a pyramid; original owner Pyramid Jewelry; last owner B.A. Ballou; renewed 2004.  
• Mark:   “B” within a star, Sterling    Courtesy RCJ
• Mark:   B — first used 1894; renewed in 1969; now dead
• Mark: Ballou — 1919; renewed in 1989
• Mark: B.A.B. & Co.
• Mark: Small Wonders – 1990; renewed 2001
• Mark: EZ Squeeze – 1996; cancelled in 2005
• Mark: Guardian — 2000
• Mark: Guardian II — 2004
• Mark: Star with a “B” inside, and the words “Trade Mark” arched above the star.
• Founded: by Barton A. Ballou

 

BALLOU, CAROLINE   

• Mark:  CB — 1995
• Mark: Caroline Ballou – 1995
• Dates: present
• Founded: Caroline Ballou
• Location: Attleborough Falls, MA
• Notes: Design Director for B.A. Ballou

BARCLAY — Providence, RI — 1947

• Mark:   Barclay     Photo courtesy Jim Katz.
• Mark:   Barclay/Art In Jewelry on an artist palette — used since 1948.
• Mark: Peltanium– first used Jan. 1953.
• Barclay was in business until about 1957.
• Barclay did not mark their jewelry the last few years.
• Founded by Alvin & Robert Rice & Louis Mark in Providence, RI, in 1947 (some sources cite 1946) after a split with Rice-Weiner.
• There is no connection between McClelland Barclay who died in 1943 and jewelry marked simply Barclay.
Updated 1/16/20 by Pamela Wiggins Siegel

 

BARCLAY, MCCLELLAND — c.-1938-1943

• Mark:   McClelland Barclay     Photo courtesy Beth Rowlands.
• Mark:      Photo courtesy Jim Katz.
• Mark:        Courtesy Patricia Gostick
• Mark:          Courtesy Patricia Gostick
• Mark:        Courtesy Patricia Gostick
• Mark:        Courtesy Patricia Gostick
• Mark:    
• This is a rare use of “©” before 1955 to protect the brand, not the design. Photo and info courtesy Jim Katz.
• Rice-Weiner produced McClelland Barclay’s designs.
• Learn more about McClelland Barclay through an article by Patricia Gostick.
Updated 1/16/20 by Pamela Wiggins Siegel

 

BARGAS, ARMAND — c. 1900

• Mark:   ABargas — “AB” are joined and “argas” is in cursive    Photo & info courtesy Plenty O’Jewels.
• French artist who designed & engraved medallions in Art Nouveau style.

 

BARKER & BARKER — Providence, RI — at least 1920-1950

• Mark:   B-B   
• Mark:   JO MAR
• Listed in a 1920 state of RI factory inspection report.

 

BARKIN, GRET

•    Mark: Gret Barkin  Photo courtesy Jennie Smith
•   Mark: Gret Barkin Sterling  Photo courtesy Jennie Smith
•   Mark: Gret Barkin, New Hope, PA, Hand Wrought  Photo courtesy Jennie Smith
• Mark: Gret  Photo courtesy Jennie Smith
• Dates: 1940’s — 1997
• Founded: Gret and Rube Barkin
• Location: New Hope, PA
• They owned a shop named “Gret Barkin”, which also stood for “Great Bargain”
• She continued making jewelry in her basement workshop until the age of 90
• She died at age 99 on July 23, 2007
• Information from Dinah Taylor, Jennie Smith and the Bucks County Courier Times 8/3/07.

 

BARLOW

•   Mark:   Barlow -1980   Photo courtesy eclecticgramma
•   Mark:   Barlow   Photo courtesy Linda Lange
• Owner: Barlow Designs, Inc.
• Location: Providence, RI

 

BARNABUS BARNA — Berverly Hills, CA — c. 1962

• Mark:   Vertical B over B under an inverted “V”   

BAR-ON — contemporary artist from Israel

• Mark:   N.S. Bar-On   Photo courtesy Roxy Richardson

BARRASSO & BLASI — Newark, NY — c. 1922

• Mark:   B&B    Founded in 1922

 

BARRERA, JOSE’ AND MARIA — contemporary designers

• Mark:   Barrera for Avon — 1989 – 1996  
• Mark:       Sold through Neiman Marcus.

 

BARTEK — Wallingford, CT ? — c. 1953

• Mark:   Bartek   Photo courtesy Myrna Seale.
• No evidence has been found to support that Stephan R. Bartek worked for Napier prior to starting his own company. Read more about Bartek here.

 

BASKIN BROTHERS — NY, NY — c. 1915 – 1931

• Mark:   Back to back “B’s”   
• Mark:   Back to back “B’s” within a circle   
• Mark:   Historic Gems
• Mark:   Lifetime
• Mark:   Victoria Regina with back to back “B’s”
• Mark:   Gardenia with back to back “B’s”

 

BASTIAN BROS. COMPANY — Rochester, NY — 1895 – present

• Mark:           Courtesy Lyn Peightal
• Mark:      
• Mark:   Bastian 10K

 

BASTIN, MARJOLEIN — Netherlands — b 1943

• Mark:   MB     Courtesy Mary Nefzgere
• Mark:   © M. Bastin (sometimes with the year)
• Had a 10 year association with Hallmark, designing paper goods and jewelry for them.

 

BATES & BACON — Attleboro, MA — 1856– c. 1943

• Mark:   
• Mark:   Bates & Bacon
• Mark:   Bates & Bacon on a shield
• Mark:   Bates & B  Courtesy Vera Battemarco
• Mark:     Courtesy ID: eclecticgramma.

 

BAUER, DOROTHY — 1982 to mid-2000s

• Originally named “A Piece of the Rainbow”, named was changed to Dorothy Bauer Designs.
• Mark:   BAUER in block letters on an oval disk.
• The mark: “Bauer 88” is NOT hers.

 

BAZOT, ANDREE — Late 1950s & early 1960s

• Mark:   Andree Bazot Paris       Photo courtesy Cathy Gordon. Photo courtesy Rene Colon.

 

BEADLITE — See WHITING & DAVIS

 

BEATRIX

• Mark:   

 

BEAU — BEAUCRAFT, INC. — Providence, RI — 1947- Sept., 2004

• Mark:   Stylized “B-Ster”   
• Mark:   Beaucraft {Sterling}      Courtesy Jenny Wren.
• Mark:   Beau B Sterling     Courtesy Pam Brooks.
• Mark:   “B” with “Ster” or “Sterling”     Photo courtesy Pam Brooks.
• Mark:   Beau Sterling  
• Mark:   Beau Sterling ©      Photo courtesy Ann Robinson ID: 9am
• Mark:   Beau tag     Courtesy Karen – a friend of RCJ
• Beaucraft also made 14kt jewelry
• Beaucraft closed shop and auctioned off their tools, molds and jewelry on 9/9/04.  Thanks to Linda Jo D. Mitchell for this update.

 

BEAUJEWELS — See BOWMAN FOSTER, INC.

 

BEGAY, KENNETH — 1940s – 1960s

• Mark:        Courtesy Julie Levine
• Known as the father of modern Navajo jewelry.

 

BEL GEDDES — See RICE-WEINER

 

BELL — BELL TRADING POST — Albuquerque, NM — 1932 – c. late 1980s

• Mark:   Bell
• Mark:   NICKELSILVER EIL,encircling a bell     Courtesy Linda Lange
• Mark:   Bell Jewelry with picture of a bell.   Photo courtesy Glitz & Glitter Boutique.
• Mark:   An image of a bell
• Mark:   “Copper by Bell” with a bell hanging from a post    RCJ
• Mark:   “Solid Copper” — A bell hanging from a post      Photo courtesy BeeGee McBride.
• Mark:   “Solid Copper” — A bell hanging from a post      Photo courtesy Jenny Wren.
• Mark:   Sterling with a bell on a post   Courtesy Susan @ Eureka
• Mark:   A bell on a round plaque with “Copper” above and “Bell” below    RCJ
• Mark:   Sterling, wtih the word “BELL” inside the bell    Courtesy RCJ
• Mark:   Karatclad by Bell     Photo courtesy ID: justabunchawildflowers.
• Mark:   Ster. and a picture of a bell; this is a later Bell mark     Courtesy Jennifer (wheat*from*the*chaff)
• Founded in 1935 by Jack Michelson at a second floor location at Third and Central in Albuquerque, New Mexico.
• Purpose was to sell Indian Jewelry to tourist locations throughout the western US in competition with Maisel’s Indian Trading Post.
• Was named “Bell” because Jack’s wife Mildred Bell Michelson’s maiden name was Bell.
• Name was changed to Sunbell Corp. in 1972; giftware and moccasin divisions were added to the existing Bell Jewelry division.
• Information courtesy of Barbara Talbott.

 

BELLINI — See FORMART CORP.

 

BEN AMUN

• Isaac Manevitz, a native of Egypt, began making fashion jewelry around 1983. Still in business in 2019.
• Mark:   Ben Amun

 

BENEDIKT — Howard Benedikt — 389 5th Ave., NYC

• Mark:   With copyright mark, after 1955  
• Mentioned as late as Aug. 1963 in a Seventeen magazine.

 

BENGEL, JACOB (Jakob)

• Mark: Oval with a cannon and cannon balls.
• Dates: 1873 to present (2007)
• Founded: Jakob Bengel
• Location: Idar Oberstein, Germany
• Notes: Originally made watch chains, but known for Art Deco designs using galalith.
• Notes: Exported great quantities to US and Europe until start of WWII.
• Notes: Is currently producting jewelry from old designs, including galalith.

 

BENNARD — See VARGAS

 

BENNETT, DANIEL — Los Angeles, CA — c. 1950s

• Mark:   Majorica — c. 1957    Photo courtesy eclecticgramma.

 

BENNETT, E.A. — Providence, RI — 1892

• Mark:   B.B.      Photo courtesy Jeri of Jeri’s Joolz at Ruby Lane.
• Mark:   E.A.B. 10K
• Became Bennett & Bradford in 1898.

BENTLEE — Ben Felsenthal & Co. — NY, NY

• Mark:   Bentlee — first used July 1917     Courtesy A friend of RCJ

 

BEREBI, EDGAR — Brooklyn, NY — 1981

• Mark:   1981-1983— mark on jewelry–just gray card on mainly plastic and patinaed metals
• Mark:   1983 — epoxy marbling with stick-on labels marked c.Berebi [the first design was flowers] 
• Mark:   1984 — produced mainly earrings on card with subtitle “Mes annee folle”[My crazy years] –still using c.Berebi on earrings
• Mark:   1992 — First use of white metal casting for earrings–c.Berebi on pieces–96% of product output was earrings 
• Mark:   1993 — first use of lever back style and museum inspired earrings and pins
• Mark:   1993 — First television show on Value Vision–first Faberge inspired eggs
• Mark:   1995 — Licensed the Edgar Berebi jewelry trademark to the 1928 Company for them to manufacture the line
• Mark:   1997 — Obtained sublicense to design & manufacture “Edgar Berebi” jewelry for use on TV; also used his trademark to make first table top eggs and boxes
• Mark:   1999 — Relationship with TV ends
• Mark:   2001 — starts to manufacture frames & boxes that had been designed for TV in 1994, and does not intend to manufacture jewelry in the near future
• Information supplied by Edgar Berebi, April, 2003.

BERGE  — See BERGERE

 

BERGERE — Herbert & Pohs, Incorporated

• Mark:   Berjac — first used in 1940
• Mark:   bergè — first used in 1946
• Mark:   bergère – first used in 1948     Photo courtesy justabunchawildflowers
• Dates: 1940 -1979
• Founded: Jack Pohs
• Location: Herbert & Pohs, Incorporated — NYC; Bergere Inc. — Providence, RI
• Notes: Bergè jewelry was a line of Herbert & Pohs; Bergere Inc. was founded by Jack Pohs
• Notes: Purchased by Amtel in 1972

 

BERJAC — See BERGERE

 

BERMAN BROTHERS — Pittsburg, PA — 1962

• Mark:   Interlocked “B’s” in a triangle   

 

BERNARD, LES — See LES BERNARD

 

BEST

• Mark:   Best in script – contemporary mark on jewelry imported from China.    Courtesy RCJ

 

BETSY ROSS — See R.F. SIMMONS

 

BETTER RHINESTONE JEWELRY CORP. — NY, NY — c. 1940s -1950s

• Mark:    BRJ
• Mark:   Smart Set 5th Ave. by BRJ      Photo courtesy Geri Makris — ID jamielee1.

 

BEX, PIERRE — See PIERRE BEX

 

BIAGI BY SWANK — See SWANK, INC.

 

BICK & SON, HARRY S. — NY, NY, from at least June 1947 until at least 1988

• Mark:   HSB with a line going through the initials.(ad from a 1947 Vogue magazine)     Courtesy Linda Lange
• Mark:   Bickson – first used 1948
• They were still in business when Rainwater wrote her book in 1988.

 

BICKSON — See BICK

 

BIGNEY — S.O. Bigney Co. of Attleboro, Mass — at least 1896 to 1946

• Mark: S.O.B.
• Mark: S.O. Bigney & Co., Pat. Oct. 6, ’08       Photos courtesy Pat Seal
• Mark:   Bigney, Lady Launton — on bracelet from 1946.
• Much of this information is courtesy of Jim Katz, who has patents to Sidney O. Bigney from 1897 to 1936.

 

BILL SMITH FOR RICHELIEU — See JOSEPH MEYER

 

BINDER BROS., INC. — NY, NY — c. 1920

• Mark:   Courtesy Sandy Lisnak
• Mark: Two “B’s” inside interlocking circles     Photo courtesy of Gail Gupton   
• Mark: BB Sterling     Photo courtesy Jennifer from Jennifer Lynn’s Timeless Jewelry.
• BIOREN BROS., Newark, NJ — c. 1887-1929 (info found in tax and other records)
• Mark:   “B B” within an oval       Courtesy Dawna St. Marie

 

BIRKS / BIRKS DINGWALL — Montreal, CA — 1879

• Mark:   Birks     Courtesy Robin Deutsch
• Some Birks jewelry was made by Knoll and Pregizer of Pforzheim, Germany.
• High end jewelry store founded by Henry Birks in 1879; acquired D.R. Dingwall in 1933.
• The Italian Regaluxe Investment group acquired Birks Dingwall in 1993.
• Thanks to Robin Deutsch for sharing her research on Birks Dingwall and Knoll & Pregizer.

 

BISHTON & COMPANY — Birmingham, England

• Mark:  B & C    Courtesy Carolyn Sunday :Frederick Bishton and Edwin Wilkes

 

B.J.

• Mark:   B.J.   Bjontegard, Suzanne
• Mark: Suzanne Bjontegard — in all capital letters
• Mark: S.B. in block letters
• Mark: SB in script
• Dates: c. 1985 til present
• Founded: Suzanne Bjontegard
• Location: San Diego, CA
• Notes: Suzi B. seen on her later boxes
• Notes: Bjontegard was born in America.
• Notes: Some information from Inside the Jewelry Box by Ann Pitman

 

BJORN, WECKSTROM — See WECKSTROM, BJORN

 

BLACKER BROTHERS — Providence, RI — c. early 1900s — in business in 1981

• Mark:   Blacher   Photo courtesy eclectigramma.
• Founded by Harry Blacher.

 

BLACK MAGIC — See ELZAC

 

BLANK, HENRY — See WHITESIDE & BLANK

 

BLANCHARD, MARYSE  — See MARYSE BLANCHARD

 

BLISS — The E.A. Bliss Co., NY, NY — est. 1878 — See NAPIER

• Mark:      Photo courtesy Linda Lange.
• The E. A. Bliss Co. was founded in 1878 by Egerton A. Bliss and James Edgar Carpenter
• The E. A. Bliss Co. moved to Meriden, CT in 1890.
• The E. A. Bliss Co. became The Napier-Bliss Co. — July 27, 1920.
• Name changed to The Napier Co. — May 31, 1922.

Below information is NO longer accurate but widely used incorrectly

• Founded by E.A. Bliss & J.E. Carpenter when they acquired the Whitney & Rice Co.
• Name became E.A. Bliss in 1883.
• Bliss Co. became Bliss/Napier in 1915.  

Information courtesy of Melinda Lewis author of, The Napier Co.: Defining 20th Century American Costume Jewelry.

 

 

BLISS BROTHERS CO. — Attleboro, MA — 1896 – c. 1950

• Mark:    Small “B” and “Co” within a larger “B”     Image couRtesy of Sheryl Hamilton.   
• Mark:   B.B. with image of a bee.
• Mark:   Surefit
• Mark:   
• Mark:    

BLOCK, FRED A.

• Mark:       Photo courtesy Cathy Gordon.
• Mark:   Fred A. Block   Photo courtesy Robin Deutsch.
• Opened a showroom in 1940; was still in business in 1949.
• Have ad from 1946

BLUMENTHAL, B. — 1877

• Mark:   B. Blumenthal & Co., Inc.  
• Mark:   B. Blumenthal & Co., Inc.    Courtesy Ronelle Willadsen
• A button manufacturer founded in 1877, who only made jewelry for a few years. Scarce and hard to find mark.
• Photo & info courtesy MJ DeCourley.

 

BLUWITE — See PROVIDENCE STOCK COMPANY

 

BOB-O-LINK — See EISENSTADT

 

BOBLEY JEWELRY, NY — 1955

• Mark:   Bobley     Courtesy eclecticgramma
• Founded by Joseph Bobley.

 

BOGOFF — Chicago, IL — 1940 – early 1960s

• Mark:   Bogoff    Photo courtesy Victoria James    Photo courtesy Jenny Wren      Courtesy Sam and Yvonne Mitchell.
• Mark:   Jewelry by Bogoff
• Mark:   Jewels by Bogoff     Photo courtesy Beth Rowlands
• Henry & Yvette Bogoff founded Spear Novelty Co. in late 1920’s/early1930’s in Chicago.
• Bogoff founded by Henry Bogoff in 1940.
• Bogoff ads from 1946-1948 mention Gay-Bee Jewelry Co. of Chicago; ads from 1949 forward do not mention Gay-Bee.
• Jewels by Bogoff listed in a Jan. 1954 brochure of an accessories show in New York City.
  
• See an article on Bogoff for more information.

 

Bohlin, Edward H — 1895- 1980

 

• Mark:      Photo courtesy Sam & Yvonne Mitchell.
• Bohlin founded his leather and silver business in Hollywood in the early 1920s making saddles, etc. for the stars of Western movies.
• The company reached its peak 1930s-1950s.
• Bohlin died in 1980.
• The company is still in business, but no longer makes the fancy saddles for which Bohlin was famous.

 

BOHMER, WILLIAM — as early as 1954

• Mentioned in a 1954 accessories show flyer.

 

BOLITA see FORSTNER–FORSTNER CHAIN CORP

 

BOLLES, JANE — c. 1967

• Have ad from 1967

 

BOND BOYD — 1944-present

• Mark:   Bond Boyd
• Mark:   Bond Boyd Sterling     Courtesy Roberta Peach
• Mark:   Halbe — used in USA
• Mark:   Latona
• Mark:   Sterling Boyd     Courtesy Roberta Peach
• Canadian jewelry company which currently does mostly corporate jewelry.

 

BOOTH, TULLA — c. 1980

• Mark:   Tulla Booth      Courtesy Judy Miller.
• American designer, who evidently no longer makes jewelry.

 

BOTTICELLI — Providence, RI — from at least 1969 until 1976

• Mark:    Photo courtesy of Cynthia Fore Miller.

BOUCHER, MARCEL — 1937-1971/72 (Pronounced: Boo-shay)

• Mark:   Marboux — Dolan found it registered in 1937; Brunialti found mark wasn’t used until 1955, for a new, less expensive line. 
• Mark:   Boucher — 1950 to 1955     Photo courtesy Linda Kent
• Mark:   MB with the phrygian cap was used from 1937-1949 (and after when space was limited)    Photo courtesy Laura Libio.    Photo courtesy Beth Rowlands.
• Mark:   “Marcel Boucher” 1938
• Mark:   Parisina — Sterling made in Mexico during WWII       Photo courtesy Lorrie Notter.
• Mark:   Earrite 1950
• Mark:   LeC      with number   — short for “Le Couturier” rare mark for high end line of Canadian made Marcel Boucher jewelry. Photos and information courtesy Sheryl Hamilton from research of Terri DeLany.
• Mark:   Le Couturier — See information for LeC     Courtesy Penny Mabrey    
• See a LeCouturier set in original box
• Mark:   Made in Canada, Boucher     Courtesy Shirley Hanick
• Mark:   “Boucher 3033” from 1950  
• Mark:   “Boucher” mark was used from 1950-1955
• Mark:   “Boucher” with the copyright mark preceding it, used from 1955 on.    Photo courtesy Erik Yang.
• Mark:   Boucher, Gladiolas        Courtesy justabunchawildflowers
• Notes: Boucher used Sterling from about 1942 until at least 1947 (Pat Seal).
• Boucher worked for Mazer in the early 1930’s.
• He did a series of flower pins that had his name, plus the name of the flower.
• Boucher Inventory Numbers  dates are approximate, as designs could have been assigned numbers, but not produced until a future time.
• From A Tribute To America by Carla and Roberto Brunialti:
• 1945: 2300-2350
• 1946: 2351-2450
• 1947: 2451-2550
• 1948: 2551-2750
• 1949: 2751-3000
• 1950: 3001-4500
• After 1955, marks had the copyright © symbol.
• 1960: 7802
• 1962: 8291
• 1965: 9100 – pieces Sandra Boucher made after Marcel’s death
• Later pieces also may have “P” for pin or “E” for earring, in addition to the number.
• Boucher died in 1965.
• Sandra Boucher, Marcel’s wife, ran the company until 1972.
• Company became a part of Davorn Industries in 1972.
• In 1977, Davorn sold the name & designs to Stutz Fashion (from American Costume Jewelry 1935-1950 by Roberto Brunialti).

 

BOYER, GAY — NY

• Mark:   Gay Boyer     Photo courtesy justabunchofwildflowers.
• Contemporary designer.

 

BOWMAN FOSTER, INC. (?) — c 1950s-c. 1970s

• Bowman Foster possibly used the Beaujewels mark, and was not associated with Beaucraft according to Fred Rezazadeh.
• Mark:   Beaujewels inside an oval frame
• Mark:   Beaujewels   Photo courtesy RCJ

 

BRANIA

• Mark:   Brania    Photo courtesy Myrna Seale.
• Notes: It was a famous bead house in NYC. Mimi Di’N designed for them in the mid 1960s.
• Have ads from 1959 and 1965.

 

BRAUDE, EMIL — Chicago, Ill. — c.1929 – at least 1985

• Mark:   Ebson -1929; reg. 1963
• Mark:   Guildhall – 1961; reg. 1962  
• Mark:   L’Amour
• Mark:   L’Amour Sterling – 1929; reg. 1963   

 

BRAZILIA FIRE — See VARGAS

 

BRENDA — See R.F. SIMMONS

 

BREVET

• French term meaning patented.     Photo courtesy Linda Lange.

 

BREV (BREVETTO)

• Italian term for licensed or patented   Courtesy a friend of RCJ

 

BRIER MFG. CO. — Providence, RI — 1913-1978

• Mark:   Little Nemo inside the shape of a ring – seen in a 1934 Keystone Jewelry trade mark book.
• Mark:   Venus — 1958
• Mark:   Nemo with a line from the top of the “O” and back under “Nemo” — jan. 1913 (Dolan)
• Mark:   Nemo     Courtesy Linda Heberling
• Mark:   NEMO in block letters — See pictures below:
• Mark:   Used before 1955       Photo courtesy ID: mew_to_you .  Photo courtesy Susan Williams.
• Mark:   Used after 1955    Photo courtesy Randie — ID antique-lacey.
• Mark:   Used after 1955    Photo courtesy Randie — ID antique-lacey.
• Notes: Much of their jewelry was not marked.
• Founded by Benjamin Brier and Sam Magid in 1913.
• Declared bankrupt in 1978 according to Rainwater.
• Brier was the parent company of Little Nemo Mfg. Co., according to Fortune Magazine, Dec. 1946 — research by Cheri Van Hoover.

 

BRIGGS, BATES, & BACON — 1922-c. 1950?

• Mark:   Carmen – in block letters (named for D.F. Briggs daughter)
• Mark:   Carmen – in script with the “C” having a “tail” under the other letters.
• Mark:   D.F.B. CO
• Mark:   Carmelita – 1950     Courtesy Carolyn Sunday
• Mark:   B & B
• Mark:   Bates & B
• Mark:   D.F.B.
• Founded around 1892 by D. F. Briggs, became Briggs, Bates & Bacon in 1922.

BRIGHTON

• Mark:   Brighton — 1973     Photo courtesy Carol Hearn
• Dates: At least 1973
• Owner: Brighton Collectibles, Inc.
• Location: City of Industry, CA

 

BROOKCRAFT

• Mark:   Brookcraft    Photo courtesy David Pritchett .
• Mark:   Brookcraft     Courtesy Linda King
• Mentioned in Vogue in 1945

 

BROOKS, NATACHA CO. — started in 1944

• 1st collection in Sept. 1944, inspired by the “Scheherazade Ballet”.
• Mark:   Sterling with Natacha curved above and Brooks curved below      Courtesy Julie Carroll.
• Mark:   Natacha Sterling     Courtesy Debra Greeson

 

B.S.K. — Steinberg, Slovitt, Kaslo, NY — c.1948 to early 1980s

• Mark:   B.S.K.           Photo courtesy ID: justabunchawildflowers.
• Mark:     Courtesy Ronelle Willadsen.
• BSK made a series of pins based on the movie “My Fair Lady”
• The B. Steinberg-Kaslo Co. was composed of partners Julius Steinberg, Morris Kimmelman, Hyman Slovitt, Abraham J. Slovitt, Samuel Friedman and another entity called Arke, Inc. *Information is from text of 1956 copyright infringement lawsuit between Trifari and B.S.K.  —  from Mid-Century Plastic Jewelry by Susan Klein.
• Another source says it closed in 1983.

 

BUBBLEITE — See GALL NOVELTY CO.

 

BUCK, FRANK

• Mark:   “Bring ‘me Back Alive” Frank Buck  
• In 1930 author and animal collector Frank Buck published his book “Bring ’em Back Alive”.
• He appeared in several movies about his adventures. A series of animal pins followed.
• Photo and information courtesy Cathy Corday.

 

BUCKLEY, NADJA — c. 1940-1979

• Designed for George. Jensen in 1948 — Vogue ad introducing her.
• Ads have been seen for the years 1954 (Glamour) through 1979 (Vogue).

BUGBEE & NILES CO. — Providence, RI — 1859- 2009

• Mark:   B & N first used in 1913
• Mark:   Amber Gem
• Mark:   Cerulean Gem
• Bugbee & Niles presentation box photo courtesy Vanessa Osborn    Larger view  The earrings have the “BN” mark.
• Mark:   BN     Courtesy Kathryn of the-vintage-jewelry-advisor.com
• Mark:   Diamonglo — 1981 — cancelled 1989
• Mark:   Diamonray — 1981 — cancelled 2003
• Mark:   Converta-Gems — 1982 — cancelled 2002
• Mark:   Diamonart — 1982 — cancelled 2003
• Mark:   Tee Topper — 1996 — cancelled 2004 
• Mark:       — 1984 until cancelled in 1992 — US Trademark site.

 

BUNNY — See UNCAS

BURCH, LAUREL — CA — 1960s – present

• Mark:   Laurel — 1960s
• Mark:    Laurel Burch in script — 1970s    Photo courtesy Victoria James
• Mark:   “Laurel Burch” with the name of the design underneath it (more recent designs)
• Laurel Burch died 9/13/07 at age 60 of a rare bone disease.

 

BURR, PATTERSON & CO. — Detroit, Michigan — c. 1909 – c. 1965

• Mark:   Backwards “B” co-joined with “P”   Photo courtesy Julie Levine
• Mark:   “Script “B” sitting slightly a-top script “P”
• Ads in trade journals 1909, 1915, 1922. under Burr, Patterson & Co.
• Ads in trade journals 1931, 1943, 1965 under Burr, Patterson & Auld Co.
• Thanks to Jenny Stephens for calling our attention to this info from Rainwater.

 

BURROWS, SANDRA MILLER

• Mark:   SMB    Photo courtesy Pat Hamm.
• Contemporary designer who designed for Monet.
• Info courtesty Carol Spigner

 

BURT CASSELL, INC.— See CASSELL, BURT

 

B&W — See BUTLER & WILSON

 

BUTLER — See FIFTH AVENUE COLLECTION

 

BUTLER, NICKY

• Mark:   “NB”
• Mark:      Photo courtesy Lyn Peightal.
• Handset stones in vintage-look jewelry.

 

BUTLER & WILSON — 1969-present

• Mark:   Oblong cartouche with B&W, 1970 seen on early Sterling lizard.  Info courtesy Suzanna Croshaw.
• Mark:   Butler & Wilson     Photo courtesy Suzanna Croshaw.
• Mark:   B&W   
• Mark:   Butler & Wilson     Photo courtesy Suzanna Croshaw.
• Mark:   B&W, Made in England     Photo courtesy Suzanna Croshaw.
• Notes: Nicky Butler & Simon Wilson started making jewelry in the early 1970s.
• Partnership broke up in the 1990’s, with Wilson retaining the B&W name.

 

BIBLIOGRAPHY

PAT SEAL: research files
DOTTY STRINGFIELD: research files
BOBYE SYVERSON: research files.
A TRIBUTE TO AMERICA by Carla and Roberto Brunialti
AMERICAN COSTUME JEWELRY by Carla and Roberto Brunialti
AMERICAN JEWELRY MANUFACTURERS by Dorothy T. Rainwater
COLLECTIBLE COSTUME JEWELRY by Cherri Simonds
COLLECTING COSTUME JEWELRY 101 By Julia Carroll
COLLECTING COSTUME JEWELRY 202 By Julia Carroll
COLLECTING RHINESTONE COLORED JEWELRY by Maryanne Dolan
COPPER ART JEWELRY by Burkholz and Kaplan
COSTUME JEWELRY A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK AND GUIDE by Fred Rezazadeh
COSTUME JEWELRY (2nd Ed.) by Harrice Simons Miller
EUROPEAN DESIGNER JEWELRY by Ginger Moro
INSIDE THE JEWELRY BOX By Ann Pitman
LUCILLE TEMPESTA: owner-publisher of the Vintage Fashion & Costume Jewelry Magazine
MASTERPIECES OF COSTUME JEWELRY by Ball and Torem
MID-CENTURY PLASTIC JEWELRY By Susan Klein
MIRIAM HASKELL JEWELRY by Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff
OLD JEWELRY by Jeanenne Bell
WARMAN’S JEWELRY 2nd Ed. by Christie Romero
WARMAN’S JEWELRY 3rd Ed. by Christie Romero
 

*DISCLAIMER: As in the past, we make every effort to ensure all information contained in the RCJ pages is accurate. However, errors can occur. Neither the prior owner of RCJ, CJCI or its representatives are responsible for your use of these resources.

 

 

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All RCJ publications and pages were created by
by Dotty Stringfield with the assistance of research contributor Pat Seal

and other valued members of the costume jewelry collecting community.