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RESEARCHING COSTUME JEWELRY
originally created and published by Dotty Stringfield on IllusionJewels.com

Jewelry History – Jewelry Research – Jewelry Marks – Jewelry Signatures – Jewelry Articles – Jewelry Galleries

COSTUME JEWELRY MARKS – D*

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D

DHT — See DINAH HOYT TAYLOR
 See CURTIS JEWELRY MANUFACTURING Co.
D’ERI — Ralph Scudieri

• Mark:   D’eri — first used Sept. 1951 
• Notes: Designer/owner was Ralph Scudieri, who designed for many companies, including Sarah Coventry. Photo & information courtesy Pat Hamm, who spoke to Scudieri’s daughter about the company.

D’ORLAN JEWELLERS LIMITED — Toronto, CA; — c. 1960 – present

• Mark:   D’Orlan with copyright mark      Photo courtesy Luda Tovey.
• Notes: Some of their inventory was purchased by Creed of Canada in 2006.
• D’Orlan was purchased by Edcar & Associates, Inc. of New York.
• D’Orlan currently sells jewelry only in Canada.

DACHE, LILLY — LILLY DACHE, INC., NY, NY — c. 1923 —?

• Mark:   Lilly Dache — first used in March 1923      Courtesy friend of RCJ.
• Notes: Have an ad from April 1959.

DAFRI — Toronto, Canada

• Mark:   DAFRI ©
• Mark:   Dafri Toronto     Courtesy Kathie Davis.
• Mark:   Dafri in script     Photo courtesy Linda Jo D. Mitchell.
• Mark:   DAFRI     Photo courtesy Luda Tovey.

DAINTY MAID — See STERN, LOUIS
DAINTY MISS — See DEKNATEL
DAKOTA WEST DESIGNS — Albuquerque, NM — Contemporary

• Mark:   Shube’s mark – An “S” superimposed over a “B”     Courtesy Beth Rowlands
• Notes: Shube’s, Inc. founded in 1972 in Albuquerque, NM; manufactured sterling jewelry. Shube’s & South Dakota Gold Co. merged to form Dakota West Design, Inc.

DALSHEIM — DALSHEIM ACCESSORIES, INC., NY, NY — c. late 1930s

• Mark:   Dalsheim     Photo courtesy Barbara Talbott.
• Mark:   Dalsheim  
• Mark:   White Jet — first used 1939
• Notes: Most of the jewelry had tags and was not signed
• Have ads from 1945 – 1956
• Mentioned in Vogue in 1978
• Bronze jewelry

DANA OF CALIFORNIA c. May 1966
DANECRAFT 1934 — present (2019) — Providence, RI

• Mark:   Used prior to 1945     Courtesy Cathy Gordon
• Mark:   Used prior to 1945     Photo courtesy Cheri & Rocky Van Hoover./li>
• Mark:   Used prior to 1945     Photo courtesy Tracy Green
• Mark:   Danecraft 1/20-12KGF  
• Mark:   Danecraft ® Sterling     Photo courtesy Beth Rowlands
• Mark:   Sterling ® Danecraft     Courtesy Deb Schneider
• Mark:   Danecraft Sterling      Courtesy Ann Robinson ID: 9am.
• Mark:   Danecraft Sterling, Reg. U.S. Pat. Off.     Courtesy Dinah Taylor
• Mark:   DANECRAFT, REG’D , C,STERLING  Courtesy Sue
• Mark:   “D” on a tiny hangtag by the clasp on pearl necklaces & with a pouch that reads “Danecraft”. From Danecraft’s Fuji Seas Collection; still available, but without the “D” tag or pouch.
• Notes: Danecraft makes Sterling, gold filled and jewelry made of base metals.
• Victor Primavera, Sr. & James Felch founded Felch & Co. in Providence, RI in 1934, with Victor in charge of design and James in charge of administration & sales. The mark used was “Danecraft”, sometimes with the mark “C” imposed over an “F”.
• In 1945 Primavera bought out Felch and changed the company name to Danecraft, which it has remained since that time.
• Jewelry marked Danecraft and the “C” imposed over an “F” would have been made prior to the buyout in 1945.
• James Felch started another jewelry company after he left Danecraft, but it only operated a few years. Jewelry from this company may have been marked “Felch”. Victor Primavera, Sr. died in 1977. The company is still owned and operated by the Primavera family.
• Information kindly provided to Dotty Stringfield (7-1-04) by Victor Primavera, III, CEO of Danecraft.

DAPPER — See — FORSTNER — FORSTNER CHAIN CORP
DARLENE JEWELRY MFG. CO.

• Mark: Darlene 1998; cancelled 2006    Courtesy Belinda Myers
• Mark: Main Street U.S.A. – 1994; cancelled 2002
• Dates: at least 1993 – present
• Location: Pawtucket, RI
• Notes: The name “Darlene” does not identify a living individual

DASON — See DAVIDSON & SONS
DATE TIMER — See MARVELLA
DAUB, ANDREAS

• Mark: A*D     Courtesy Karen Bird
• Dates: c. 1875 until present
• Founded: By Andreas Daub
• Location: Pforzheim, Germany
• Notes: Still managed by family members.

DAUPLAISE, CAROL — 1978 to present (2019)

• Mark:   
• Notes: Worked for Haskell from 1959 until 1978. She left Haskell to form her own jewelry company, which is still in business.
• Jewelry is sold under her name, and the company makes jewelry for other companies. Ms. Dauplaise died in 2016.

DAUS, HEIDI — Montclair, New Jersey — 1981 to present

• • Mark:   Heidi Daus  Photo courtesy Jay B. Siegel
  • Mark:   Heidi Daus China  Photo courtesy Jay B. Siegel
  • Mark: Heidi Daus CN
  • Mark:   Heidi Daus for Jim Walters  
  • Mark:   Heidi Daus (with the “for Jim Walters” scratched out)
  • Heidi Daus jewelry has been sold in boutiques as well as through Home Shopping Chanel (HSN).
  • Jewelry marked Heidi Daus for Jim Walters was made from 1990 through 1998.
  • Current HSN pieces are made in China and marked Heidi Daus China or Heidi Daus CN.
  • Some non-HSN pieces are not marked.
  • Some information courtesy of Brenda Forman.

Updated 4/15/2020 by Pamela Wiggins Siegel

DAVID ANDERSEN — See ANDERSEN
DAVID, B. — 1945-1993

• Mark:   B.David     Photo courtesy Gail Gupton     Photo courtesy Pam Brooks.
• Mark:   “B. David” inside an oval frame
• Mark:   “b. david” inside a divided square    Photo courtesy Linda Chapple.
• Mark:   “bd” arranged diagonally.
• Notes: Do not confuse with Ben David Jewelry which uses BDJ as its trademark.
• Debra Moreland (Paris jewelry) purchased B. David manufacturing facilities (only) in 1993.
• Thanks to Bonnie Rasche for some of this info.

DAVID GRAU — See GRAU, DAVID
DAVINCI JEWELRY

•   Mark: DaVinci    Photo courtesy eclecticgramma
• Location: Providence, RI

DAVINCI JEWELRY

• Mark: DVJ — 1999
• Dates: c. 1999
• Location: Pawtucket, RI

DAVIS, ALMA

• Notes: Huge shoulder duster earrings.
• Have ad March 1966

DAVINCI CREATIONS, INC.

• Mark: Perma Clad — 1965
• Mark: Perma Gold — 1965 (assigned to Capri Jewlery, Inc. by DaVinci)
• Mark: Leonardo — 1965
• Dates: c. 1960s to at least 1981
• Location: Providence, RI

DAVIDSON & SONS, NY c. 1930s

• Mark:   Dason     Courtesy of Lilly Vittetow

DAY AND NIGHT — See CORO
DEAUVILLE — See J.R. WOOD & SONS CO.
DEBRA MORELAND — See MORELAND
DEBUTANTE (ITALICS) — See CORO
DE CROOM, PAUL — c. Jan. 1967

• Notes:  Feather Jewelry.

DE FIRENZE —  c. Nov. 1960
DEJA COSTUME JEWELRY, INC. 1939 — 1941 — See REJA

• Pronunciation: DAY_ZHA (like Zsa Zsa Gabor)

DEKNATEL — J.A. DEKNATEL & SON INC., NY, NY — c. 1904 — to at least 1952

• Mark:   Deknatel in oval “necklace” — 1948
• Mark:   The Deknatel Quality
• Mark:   DeKnatel Sterling     Courtesy ID ttz21
• Mark:   Indestructible ( imitation pearls)
• Mark:   Initials “JAD & s” overlapped inside a circle
• Mark:   Lily White (simulated Pearls)
• Mark:   Dainty Miss — 1940
•  Notes: Have 1952 ad

DE LILLO, WILLIAM — 1967-1976  

• Mark: deLillo
• Mark: Wm deLillo
• William de Lillo worked for Tiffany & Co. and Harry Winston along with Miriam Haskell, briefly, before going into business with his life partner Robert Clark (former head designer for Haskell). They made jewelry marked either deLillo or Wm deLillo from 1967 through 1976.
• The designing couple lived in France for a period beginning in 1976 and worked with a number of fashion houses to design jewelry including Schiaparelli and Nina Ricci before returning to the United States.
• Source: Some information from ASJRA’s Adornment newsletter.

Updated 4/5/2020 by Pamela Wiggins Siegel

DE LIZZA & ELSTER (Juliana) New York 1947 — 1990

•   Photo courtesy Mary Baker; ID rockygems.
• “Juliana Original” “Fashion Earrings Hand Set” on earring card    Photo courtesy Mary Baker; ID rockygems.
• Mark:   “Jewelry by DeLizza” paper hang tag — 2003
• Mark:   “Elegant” hang-tag      Photo courtesy Tara Mauldin.
• Made jewelry marked with “Gloria” hang-tags for Gloria Jewelry — owner Ruth Stern
• Made jewelry marked with “Tara” hang-tags and “Tara” mark for Fred Lubwold, 5th Avenue, NY  (See Tara)
• “Juliana Original” was a name DeLizza & Elster (D&E) sold under beginning in 1967 through 1968. A paper hang tag was used on the jewelry. Juliana was named after Frank DeLizza’s mother. However, this style of jewelry was always carried by DeLizza and Elster.
• Designers and manufacturers of fine costume jewelry for 100’s of companies including Accessocraft, Albert Weiss, Alexis Kirk, Ann Hand, Adrienne Vittadini, Banana Republic, Ballet Jewels, Alice Caviness, Ciro, Celebrity, Capri, Coro, Carol Duplaise, Eisenberg, Garne, House of Ivana, Hobe’, House of Schrager, Herbert Stehberg, Inc. (Dallas, Tx), Home Shopping Club, Hattie Carnegie, Jacobson’s Department stores, Kenneth J. Lane, Kramer, Karu, Mimi Di N, 1928 jewelry, Park Lane, Pakula, Sarah Coventry, Seligman Jewelry, Talbot’s, Ann Taylor, Victoria’s Secret, Lillian Vernon, Walt Disney World, YSL and more.
• D&E also made “cobra” belts for Omega, Gare, Calderon and Hobe’.
• Founded by William DeLizza and Harold Elster in New York City.
• Also See CJCI’s article “Identifying DeLizza & Elster (Juliana) Jewelry 101” to learn more about this type of unmarked costume jewelry.

Updated 9/4/2020 by Pamela Wiggins Siegel

DELROY — See ROYAL BEAD
DELTAH, INC.

• Made artificial pearls, still in business as of 1988.

DELTAH PEARLS — established in 1892 by M.J. Karpeles — See IMPERIAL PEARL for current information

• Mark:   Deltah first used in 1934
• Mark:   Hang tag on pearls  front     back  
• Notes: Purchased by L. Heller — c. 1900.
• Became Heller-Sperry in the 1950’s, when Heller merged with Sperry Corp..
• Sold to Tevia, Gilbert and Elliott Sachs in the 1960s and was renamed Pearls by Deltah.
• Purchased by the Bazar Group in 1971.
• L. Heller used many trademarks, so probably was a wholeseller.
• Have an ad from 1949

DEMARIO, ROBERT, NY, NY — 1945 — 1965

• Mark:   DeMario     Courtesy Cindy Amirkhan.
• Mark:   DeMario
• Mark:   DeMario NY      Photo courtesy Cathy Gordon.
• Mark:   Another DeMario NY      Photo courtesy Cathy Gordon.
• Mark:   DeMario in script      Photo courtesy Cheri & Rocky Van Hoover.
• Mark:   DeMario inside an oval     Courtesy Lynne McNabb Conner
• Mark:   Robert deMario N.Y.C.     Courtesy Doreen Harrington
• Mark:   Hagler for DeMario — Vogue March 1966
• Mark: DeMario/Hagler   Photo courtesy Annette Forslund.
• Notes: Hagler and DeMario considered a partnership, but it didn’t happen. Some stock of DeMario findings were left with Hagler and he would occasionally use them. (Info courtesy Mark Mercy)
• Have Vogue ads from 1957, 1958, 1964

DENBE’ — See DENBERG, J.J.
DENBERG,  J.J. — N.Y., N.Y. — from at least 1950 to 1954

• Mark:   Denbe’     Courtesy Becky Sweet

DENNING, KAYE — 1960s – ?

• Mark:   K. Denning     Courtesy Carol Neitzel
• Mark:   Denning
• Notes: Independent artist who created enameled jewelry.
• Bovano [still in business] of Cheshire, CT contacted her to do designs for them in late 1960s & early 1970s. She created her own designs and sold them through retail outlets. By 1980, she was no longer making jewelry.

DeNICOLA — Jerry DeNicola, Inc., NY, Ny — c. 1957-1970

• Mark:   DeNicola     Photo courtesy of Gail Gupton
• Mark:   DeNicola ©   
• Mark:   The Real Look — 1962
• Mark:   Young America — 1964
• Notes: Have Vogue ad — 1957

DEPONIERT or DEP — means registered
Déposé — French for patented
DESERT ROSE TRADING CO.  — Albuquerque, NM

• Mark:      1992   Courtesy Plenty O’Jewels.

DeROSA — founded by Ralph DeRosa, NY, NY — 1934-1970

• Mark:   DeRosa
• Mark:   R.DeRosa      Photo courtesy Beth Rowlands.
• Mark:   DeRosa Designed Jewels — 1946
• Notes: His daughters Elvira (Vera) & Teresa, along with their mother Virginia ran the company after 1942.
• Sterling was used from 1942-1949.
• Have ads from 1946 and 1947.

DESBRUERES, EVELYNE c. Aug. 1967

• DESIGNS FROM THE DEEP — Stephanie Dew & husband Larry Petrash, Mt. Vernon, NY — c. 1986
• Mark:    D. F. T. D.     Courtesy Carmen – ID seelly
• Notes: Handmade decoupage & enameling over copper items.

DEUTSCH, THELMA —  c. 1980-1995

• Mark:   Thelma Deutsch      Photo courtesy Bobye Syverson
• Mark:        RCJ

DEVE, CLAIRE — Paris

• Mark:   Claire Deve Paris     Courtesy Mary Ann Docktor-Smith
• Notes: Designer working or selling in London in the 1980s.

DEWEES

• Mark:   Dewees
• Notes: Styles look like c. 1930s-1940s.

DFA — See DUBARRY
DIAMONBAR — WACHENBEIMER BROS., Providence, RI — c.1907 — to at least the mid 1930s

• Mark:   Diamonbar
• Mark:   Diamonbar Sterling      Photo courtesy Robin Deutsch

DIANA — See KREMENTZ
DINAH HOYT TAYLOR — 1998 – present

• Mark:      
• Mark:      
• Mark:      
• Notes: Dinah was a fabrics & clothing designer from 1970-1998. She has created jewelry in silver, brass and copper from 1998 to present.
• Her designs can be found on her website Capricious Crowns.

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG — See VON FURSTENBERG
DIONNE COLE — See COLE, DIONNE
DIOR, CHRISTIAN — est. Maison Dior in 1948 – present

• Designers and manufacturers of Dior jewerly include:
• Mark:   Mitchell Maer for Dior 1952 until 1956
• Mark:   Christian Dior by Kramer 1950s    Photo courtesy Jennifer from Jennifer Lynn’s Timeless Jewelry.
• Mark:   Made In Germany for Christian Dior   Photo courtesy Erik Yang.
• Mark:   Christian Dior — Henkel and Grosse of Germany. Jewelry is usually dated.
• Mark:   Perles “Eau Douce” by Christian Dior — paper tag
• Mark:   Chr. Dior     Photo courtesy Barbara Talbott.
• Mark:   Dior Gold Filled   
• Mark:        Courtesy Becky Sweet
• Mark:   1973 Chr. Dior Germany     Courtesy Lorna at Jewelry Addiction
• Notes: Other designers were Josette Gripoix & Robert Goossens. Dior Costume Jewelry mentioned in 1948 Vogue.
• Christian Dior died in 1957.  The company still in business today in 2019.

DITZEL, NANNA — See GEORG JENSEN
DKNY — See KARAN, DONNA
DOCTOR DRESS — c. 1930s -1940s

• Mark:     Courtesy of Mickie Dease.

DODDS (DODDZ) c. 1950s — out of business

• Mark:   DODDS
• Mark:   Doddz    
• Notes: The mark is not always legible.

DOLLY MADISON — See MARATHON
DOMINIQUE – at least 2002 until 2011

• Mark:   Dominique      Courtesy Carolyn Davis
• Notes: Dominic de Tora made Dominique jewelry until he retired in 2011 at age 88. At some point he worked for Eisenberg and Weiss.

DON HOBE’ — See HOBE’, DON
DON-LIN — 1972 till present (2009) Providence RI

• Mark:        Courtesy Deb Schneider
• Notes: Founded by Donald and Linda St. Angelo; Donald passed away in 2006.

DONALD STANNARD — See STANNARD, DONALD
DORAN JEWELRY COMPANY

•  Mark: Doran.  Photo courtesy Debbie and Pat – Sisters Together
• Dates: At least 1907 when they erected a building in Providence until at least 1931 (Rainwater)
• Founded: James Doran
• Location: Providence, RI
• Listed in a 1920 state of RI factory inspection report.
• Information kindly provided by Kathy Thornton, granddaughter of James Doran.

DONCASTER — Rutherfordton, NC — 1931 to present

• Mark:   Doncaster     Courtesy Pat Hamm
• Notes: Founded in 1931 as Doncaster Collar and Shirt Co. by S.B. Tanner, Jr. In 1935 they transformed the shirt patterns into shirtwaist dresses.
• Sold through home consultants, with jewelry as a part of their line.

DONNA – NY

• Mark:   Donna 1946
• Mark:   Costume Jewelry by Donna 1946
• Note: These were marks of the David Grad Co. of NYC.

Donna Karan — NY — c. 1980s to present

• Mark:      Photo courtesy justabunchofwildflowers.

DOROTHY BAUER — See BAUER, DOROTHY
DORSONS — D. ORNSTEIN & SONS CORP. — 1922 (patent found) to at least 1950 NY, NY

• Mark:   Dorsons
• Mark:   DO Creations
• Mark:   DO
• Mark:   Dorsons Sterling Silver     Photo courtesy Nicole Goodwin.
• Mark:   Dorson Sterling     Photo courtesy Nicole Goodwin.
• Mark:   dorsons 1/20 12K GF     Photo courtesy JoAnn Crampton
• Mark:   Jubilee
• Notes: Ad from 1946 for 12kt gold-filled jewelry $3.00 — $50.00

DOTTENHEIM, MARK — New York, NY

• Mark:   Jeanne first used in 1919 for pearl jewelry.

DOTTY SMITH — See SMITH, DOTTY
DOUBLE EXPOSURE — See CARNEGIE
DRAGONLADY EARRINGS COMPANY — 1983 to present, Bruce Horton; Dallas, TX

• Mark:   Dragon Lady on a soldered tag.  

DREAMBOAT — See CORO
DRGM — German for patented
DUANE

• Mark:   DUANE   Photo courtesy ID: justabunchawildflowers.
• Notes: Probably c. 1950 & short time in business according to Rezazadeh.

DU BARRY BAG — See NAPIER
DUBARRY F.A. — DUBARRY FIFTH AVENUE — NYC

• Mark:   DuBarry F.A.     Photo courtesy David Pritchett.
• Mark:   “D”, DuBarry, “FA” in a shield under a crown     Photo courtesy ID: justabunchawildflowers.
• Notes: Pin and earrings on original card   Courtesy Andrea Maloney
• Much of their jewelry was only marked with a paper hangtag, much like the blue mark above. The company probably went out of business by the late 1960s or early 1970s.
• “My neighbor across the street was their accountant when I was a little girl.   On one of my first trips to NYC I bought a Goldette style slide bracelet from them. It probably was made for them by Goldette.”   Information courtesy Robin Deutsch’s childhood memories.

DU JAY — 1934-1972

• • Mark:   Du Jay    Photo courtesy Robin Deutsch
  • Notes: Founded by Jules Hirsch & Jacques H. Leff as a division of Hirsch & Leff–makers of fine jewelry. DuJay is considered rare.
  • Most early pieces of DuJay are unmarked. Did not start sporadically marking jewelry until 1938 during tradename infringement battle with Deja. Earliest mark is in script lettering.
  • Many copies of DuJay designs were made in the 1930s and early ’40s. Read an article related to DuJay by Robin Deutsch: What Made a Piece Copy Worthy?

Updated 3/27/2020 by Pamela Wiggins Siegel

DUBL-LOCK See FORSTNER — FORSTNER CHAIN CORP
DUCHESS — See H. & S. ORIGINALS
DUBOYES

• Mark:     Photo courtesy Gail Gupton

DUETTE — See CORO
DVF— See VON FURSTENBERG, DIANE
DVJ — See DAVINCI  JEWELRY
DWECK, STEPHEN — 1981 to present (2019)

• Mark:   Script signature     Courtesy Linda Jo
• Mark:        Photo courtesy Erik Yang.

DYNASTY — See MARVELLA

BIBLIOGRAPHY

PAT SEAL: research files
DOTTY STRINGFIELD: research files
BOBYE SYVERSON: research files.
A TRIBUTE TO AMERICA by Carla and Roberto Brunialti
AMERICAN COSTUME JEWELRY by Carla and Roberto Brunialti
AMERICAN JEWELRY MANUFACTURERS by Dorothy T. Rainwater
COLLECTIBLE COSTUME JEWELRY by Cherri Simonds
COLLECTING COSTUME JEWELRY 101 By Julia Carroll
COLLECTING COSTUME JEWELRY 202 By Julia Carroll
COLLECTING RHINESTONE COLORED JEWELRY by Maryanne Dolan
COPPER ART JEWELRY by Burkholz and Kaplan
COSTUME JEWELRY A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK AND GUIDE by Fred Rezazadeh
COSTUME JEWELRY (2nd Ed.) by Harrice Simons Miller
EUROPEAN DESIGNER JEWELRY by Ginger Moro
INSIDE THE JEWELRY BOX By Ann Pitman
LUCILLE TEMPESTA: owner-publisher of the Vintage Fashion & Costume Jewelry Magazine
MASTERPIECES OF COSTUME JEWELRY by Ball and Torem
MID-CENTURY PLASTIC JEWELRY By Susan Klein
MIRIAM HASKELL JEWELRY by Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff
OLD JEWELRY by Jeanenne Bell
WARMAN’S JEWELRY 2nd Ed. by Christie Romero
WARMAN’S JEWELRY 3rd Ed. by Christie Romero
1922 TradeMarks of Jewelry & Kindred Trades
1934 Keystone Jewelry Trade Mark Book

*DISCLAIMER: As in the past, we make every effort to ensure all information contained in the RCJ pages is accurate. However, errors can occur. Neither the prior owner of RCJ, CJCI or its representatives are responsible for your use of these resources.

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by Dotty Stringfield with the assistance of research contributor Pat Seal
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