Costume Jewelry Collectors Int’l
is pleased to host
Researching Costume Jewelry
originally published by Dotty Stringfield on IllusionJewels.com
Jewelry History – Jewelry Research – Jewelry Marks – Jewelry Signatures – Jewelry Articles – Jewelry Galleries
COSTUME JEWELRY MARKS – D *
Information and images contained in Researching Costume Jewelry (RCJ) were created by Illusion Jewels and are currently maintained and updated by Costume Jewelry Collectors Int’l (CJCI). Written permission by CJCI is needed to use any information obtained from RCJ in any other publication whether written or electronic.
DHT — See Dinah Hoyt Taylor
see Curtis Jewelry Manufacturing Co.
D’ERI — Ralph Scudieri
- Mark: D’eri — first used Sept. 1951
- Notes: Designer/owner was Ralph Scudieri, who designed for many companies, including Sarah Coventry. Photo & information courtesy Pat Hamm, who spoke to Scudieri’s daughter about the company.
D’ORLAN JEWELLERS LIMITED — Toronto, CA; — c. 1960 – present
- Mark: D’Orlan with copyright mark Photo courtesy Luda Tovey.
- Notes: Some of their inventory was purchased by Creed of Canada in 2006.
- D’Orlan was purchased by Edcar & Associates, Inc. of New York.
- D’Orlan currently sells jewelry only in Canada.
DACHE, LILLY — LILLY DACHE, INC., NY, NY — c. 1923-?
- Mark: Lilly Dache — first used in March 1923 Courtesy friend of RCJ.
- Notes: Have an ad from April 1959.
DAFRI — Toronto, Canada
- Mark: DAFRI ©
- Mark: Dafri Toronto Courtesy Kathie Davis.
- Mark: Dafri in script Photo courtesy Linda Jo D. Mitchell.
- Mark: DAFRI Photo courtesy Luda Tovey.
DAINTY MAID — See STERN, LOUIS
DAINTY MISS — See DEKNATEL
DAKOTA WEST DESIGNS — Albuquerque, NM — Contemporary
- Mark: Shube’s mark – An “S” superimposed over a “B” Courtesy Beth Rowlands
- Notes: Shube’s, Inc. founded in 1972 in Albuquerque, NM; manufactured sterling jewelry. Shube’s & South Dakota Gold Co. merged to form Dakota West Design, Inc.
DALSHEIM — DALSHEIM ACCESSORIES, INC., NY, NY — c. late 1930s
- Mark: Dalsheim Photo courtesy Barbara Talbott.
- Mark: Dalsheim
- Mark: White Jet — first used 1939
- Notes: Most of the jewelry had tags and was not signed
- Have ads from 1945 – 1956
- Mentioned in Vogue in 1978
- Bronze jewelry
DANA OF CALIFORNIA c. May 1966
DANECRAFT 1934-present (2019) — Providence, RI
- Mark: Used prior to 1945 Courtesy Cathy Gordon
- Mark: Used prior to 1945 Photo courtesy Cheri & Rocky Van Hoover.
- Mark: Used prior to 1945 Photo courtesy Tracy Green
- Mark: Danecraft 1/20-12KGF
- Mark: Danecraft ® Sterling Photo courtesy Beth Rowlands
- Mark: Sterling ® Danecraft Courtesy Deb Schneider
- Mark: Danecraft Sterling Courtesy Ann Robinson ID: 9am.
- Mark: Danecraft Sterling, Reg. U.S. Pat. Off. Courtesy Dinah Taylor
- Mark: DANECRAFT, REG’D , C,STERLING Courtesy Sue
- Mark: “D” on a tiny hangtag by the clasp on pearl necklaces & with a pouch that reads “Danecraft”. From Danecraft’s Fuji Seas Collection; still available, but without the “D” tag or pouch.
- Notes: Danecraft makes Sterling, gold filled and jewelry made of base metals.
- Victor Primavera, Sr. & James Felch founded Felch & Co. in Providence, RI in 1934, with Victor in charge of design and James in charge of administration & sales. The mark used was “Danecraft”, sometimes with the mark “C” imposed over an “F”.
- In 1945 Primavera bought out Felch and changed the company name to Danecraft, which it has remained since that time.
- Jewelry marked Danecraft and the “C” imposed over an “F” would have been made prior to the buyout in 1945.
- James Felch started another jewelry company after he left Danecraft, but it only operated a few years. Jewelry from this company may have been marked “Felch”. Victor Primavera, Sr. died in 1977. The company is still owned and operated by the Primavera family.
- Information kindly provided to Dotty Stringfield (7-1-04) by Victor Primavera, III, CEO of Danecraft.
DAPPER see FORSTNER — FORSTNER CHAIN CORP
DARLENE JEWELRY MFG. CO.
- Mark: Darlene 1998; cancelled 2006 Courtesy Belinda Myers
- Mark: Main Street U.S.A. – 1994; cancelled 2002
- Dates: at least 1993 – present
- Location: Pawtucket, RI
- Notes: The name “Darlene” does not identify a living individual
DASON — See DAVIDSON & SONS
DATE TIMER — See MARVELLA
- Mark: A*D Courtesy Karen Bird
- Dates: c. 1875 until present
- Founded: By Andreas Daub
- Location: Pforzheim, Germany
- Notes: Still managed by family members.
DAUPLAISE, CAROL — 1978 to present (2019)
- Notes: Worked for Haskell from 1959 until 1978. She left Haskell to form her own jewelry company, which is still in business.
- Jewelry is sold under her name, and the company makes jewelry for other companies. Ms. Dauplaise died in 2016.
DAUS, HEIDI — New York — Contemporary designer
- Mark: Heidi Daus for Jim Walters
- Mark: Heidi Daus (with the “for Jim Walters” scratched out)
- Notes: Some earlier pieces not marked.
- Courtesy of Brenda Forman.
DAVID ANDERSON — See ANDERSON
DAVID, B. — 1945-1993
- Mark: B.David Photo courtesy Gail Gupton Photo courtesy Pam Brooks.
- Mark: “B. David” inside an oval frame
- Mark: “b. david” inside a divided square Photo courtesy Linda Chapple.
- Mark: “bd” arranged diagonally.
- Notes: Do not confuse with Ben David Jewelry which uses BDJ as its trademark.
- Debra Moreland (Paris jewelry) purchased B. David manufacturing facilities (only) in 1993.
- Thanks to Bonnie Rasche for some of this info.
DAVID GRAU — See GRAU, DAVID
- Mark: DaVinci Photo courtesy eclecticgramma
- Location: Providence, RI
- Notes: Huge shoulder duster earrings.
- Have ad March 1966
DAVINCI CREATIONS, INC.
- Mark: Perma Clad — 1965
- Mark: Perma Gold — 1965 (assigned to Capri Jewlery, Inc. by DaVinci)
- Mark: Leonardo — 1965
- Dates: c. 1960s to at least 1981
- Location: Providence, RI
- Mark: DVJ — 1999
- Dates: c. 1999
- Location: Pawtucket, RI
DAVISON & SONS, NY c. 1930s
- Mark: Dason Courtesy of Lilly Vittetow
DAY AND NIGHT — See CORO
DEAUVILLE — See — J. R. WOOD & SONS CO.
DEBRA MORELAND — See MORELAND
DEBUTANTE (ITALICS) — See CORO
DE CROOM, PAUL — c. Jan. 1967
DE FIRENZE — c. Nov. 1960
DEJA COSTUME JEWELRY, INC. 1939 — 1941 — See REJA
- Pronunciation: DAY_ZHA (like Zsa Zsa Gabor)
DEKNATEL — J.A. DEKNATEL & SON INC., NY, NY — c. 1904 — to at least 1952
- Mark: Deknatel in oval “necklace” — 1948
- Mark: The Deknatel Quality
- Mark: DeKnatel Sterling Courtesy ID ttz21
- Mark: Indestructible ( imitation pearls)
- Mark: Initials “JAD & s” overlapped inside a circle
- Mark: Lily White (simulated Pearls)
- Mark: Dainty Miss — 1940
- Notes: Have 1952 ad
DE LILLO, WM / ROBERT CLARK — 1967-?
DE LIZZA AND ELSTER, New York 1947 — 1990; present —
COMPANY HISTORY: “Juliana Original” was a name DeLizza & Elster sold under beginning in 1967, and which was active through 1968. A paper hang tag was used on the jewelry. Juliana was named after Frank DeLizza’s mother. However, this style of jewelry was always carried by DeLizza and Elster.
- Photo courtesy Mary Baker; ID rockygems.
- “Juliana Original” “Fashion Earrings Hand Set” on earring card Photo courtesy Mary Baker; ID rockygems.
See earrings on original card, courtesy Ellen
- Mark: “Jewelry by DeLizza” paper hang tag — 2003
- Mark: “Elegant” hang-tag Photo courtesy Tara Mauldin.
- Made jewelry marked with “Gloria” hang-tags for Gloria Jewelry — owner Ruth Stern
- Made jewelry marked with “Tara” hang-tags and “Tara” mark for Fred Lubwold, 5th Avenue, NY (see Tara)
- Notes: Designers & manufacturers of fine costume jewelry for 100’s of companies: Accessocraft, Albert Weiss, Alexis Kirk, Ann Hand, Adrienne Vittadini, Banana Republic, Ballet Jewels, Alice Caviness, Ciro, Celebrity, Capri, Coro, Carol Duplaise, Eisenberg, Garne, House of Ivana, Hobe’, House of Schrager, Herbert Stehberg, Inc. (Dallas, Tx), Home Shopping Club, Hattie Carnegie, Jacobson’s Department stores, Kenneth J. Lane,Kramer, Karu, Mimi Di N, 1928 jewelry, Park Lane, Pakula, Sarah Coventry, Seligman Jewelry, Talbot’s, Ann Taylor, Victoria’s Secret, Lillian Vernon, Walt Disney World, YSL & more.
- D&E also made “cobra” belts for Omega, Gare, Calderon and Hobe’.
- Founded by William DeLizza & Harold Elster in NYC. Frank DeLizza, son of William, is currently offering jewelry in some of their original design. Info courtesy Cheri Van Hoover.
- Also see CJCI’s Juliana Jewelry Reference Supplemental Index by Pamela Wiggins Siegel
DELROY — See ROYAL BEAD
- Made artificial pearls, still in business as of 1988.
DELTAH PEARLS — established in 1892 by M.J. Karpeles — See IMPERIAL PEARL for current information
- Mark: Deltah first used in 1934
- Mark: Hang tag on pearls front back
- Notes: Purchased by L. Heller — c. 1900.
- Became Heller-Sperry in the 1950’s, when Heller merged with Sperry Corp..
- Sold to Tevia, Gilbert and Elliott Sachs in the 1960s and was renamed Pearls by Deltah.
- Purchased by the Bazar Group in 1971.
- L. Heller used many trademarks, so probably was a wholeseller.
- Have an ad from 1949
DEMARIO, ROBERT, NY, NY— 1945-1965
- Mark: DeMario Courtesy Cindy Amirkhan.
- Mark: DeMario
- Mark: DeMario NY Photo courtesy Cathy Gordon.
- Mark: Another DeMario NY Photo courtesy Cathy Gordon.
- Mark: DeMario in script Photo courtesy Cheri & Rocky Van Hoover.
- Mark: DeMario inside an oval Courtesy Lynne McNabb Conner
- Mark: Robert deMario N.Y.C. Courtesy Doreen Harrington
- Mark: Hagler for DeMario — Vogue March 1966
- Mark: DeMario/Hagler Photo courtesy Annette Forslund.
- Notes: Hagler and DeMario considered a partnership, but it didn’t happen. Some stock of DeMario findings were left with Hagler and he would occasionally use them. (Info courtesy Mark Mercy)
- Have Vogue ads from 1957, 1958, 1964
DENBE’ — See DENBERG, J.J.
DENBERG, J.J. — N.Y., N.Y. — from at least 1950 to 1954
- Mark: Denbe’ Courtesy Becky Sweet
DENNING, KAYE — 1960s – ?
- Mark: K. Denning Courtesy Carol Neitzel
- Mark: Denning
- Notes: Independent artist who created enameled jewelry.
- Bovano [still in business] of Cheshire, CT contacted her to do designs for them in late 1960s & early 1970s. She created her own designs and sold them through retail outlets. By 1980, she was no longer making jewelry.
DeNICOLA — Jerry DeNicola, Inc., NY, Ny — c. 1957-1970
- Mark: DeNicola Photo courtesy of Gail Gupton
- Mark: DeNicola ©
- Mark: The Real Look — 1962
- Mark: Young America — 1964
- Notes: Have Vogue ad — 1957
DEPONIERT or DEP — means registered
Déposé — French for patented
DESERT ROSE TRADING CO. — Albuquerque, NM
- Mark: 1992 Courtesy Plenty O’Jewels.
DeROSA — founded by Ralph DeRosa, NY, NY — 1934-1970
- Mark: DeRosa
- Mark: R.DeRosa Photo courtesy Beth Rowlands.
- Mark: DeRosa Designed Jewels — 1946
- Notes: His daughters Elvira (Vera) & Teresa, along with their mother Virginia ran the company after 1942.
- Sterling was used from 1942-1949.
- Have ads from 1946 and 1947.
DESBRUERES, EVELYNE c. Aug. 1967
- DESIGNS FROM THE DEEP — Stephanie Dew & husband Larry Petrash, Mt. Vernon, NY — c. 1986
- Mark: D. F. T. D. Courtesy Carmen – ID seelly
- Notes: Handmade decoupage & enameling over copper items.
DEUTSCH, THELMA — c. 1980-1995
- Mark: Thelma Deutsch Photo courtesy Bobye Syverson
- Mark: RCJ
DEVE, CLAIRE — Paris
- Mark: Claire Deve Paris Courtesy Mary Ann Docktor-Smith
- Notes: Designer working or selling in London in the 1980s.
- Mark: Dewees
- Notes: Styles look like c. 1930s-1940s.
DFA — See DuBarry
DIAMONBAR — WACHENBEIMER BROS., Providence, RI — c.1907 — to at least the mid 1930s
- Mark: Diamonbar
- Mark: Diamonbar Sterling Photo courtesy Robin Deutsch
DIANA — See KREMENTZ
DINAH HOYT TAYLOR — 1998 – present
- Notes: Dinah was a fabrics & clothing designer from 1970-1998. She has created jewelry in silver, brass and copper from 1998 to present.
- Her designs can be found on her website Capricious Crowns.
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG — See VON FURSTENBERG
DIONNE COLE — See COLE, DIONNE
DIOR, CHRISTIAN — est. Maison Dior in 1948 – present
- Designers and manufacturers of Dior jewerly include:
- Mark: Mitchell Maer for Dior 1952 until 1956
- Mark: Christian Dior by Kramer 1950s Photo courtesy Jennifer from Jennifer Lynn’s Timeless Jewelry.
- Mark: Made In Germany for Christian Dior Photo courtesy Erik Yang.
- Mark: Christian Dior — Henkel and Grosse of Germany. Jewelry is usually dated.
- Mark: Perles “Eau Douce” by Christian Dior — paper tag
- Mark: Chr. Dior Photo courtesy Barbara Talbott.
- Mark: Dior Gold Filled
- Mark: Courtesy Becky Sweet
- Mark: 1973 Chr. Dior Germany Courtesy Lorna at Jewelry Addiction
- Notes: Other designers were Josette Gripoix & Robert Goossens. Dior Costume Jewelry mentioned in 1948 Vogue.
- Christian Dior died in 1957. The company still in business today in 2019.
DITZEL, NANNA — See GEORG JENSEN
DKNY — See KARAN, DONNA
DOCTOR DRESS — c. 1930s -1940s
- Mark: Courtesy of Mickie Dease.
DODDS (DODDZ) c. 1950s — out of business
- Mark: DODDS
- Mark: Doddz
- Notes: The mark is not always legible.
DOLLY MADISON — See MARATHON
DOMINIQUE – at least 2002 until 2011
- Mark: Dominique Courtesy Carolyn Davis
- Notes: Dominic de Tora made Dominique jewelry until he retired in 2011 at age 88. At some point he worked for Eisenberg and Weiss.
DON HOBE’ — See HOBE’, DON
DON-LIN — 1972 till present (2009) Providence RI
- Mark: Courtesy Deb Schneider
- Notes: Founded by Donald and Linda St. Angelo; Donald passed away in 2006.
DONALD STANNARD — See STANNARD, DONALD
DORAN JEWELRY COMPANY
- Mark: Doran. Photo courtesy Debbie and Pat – Sisters Together
- Dates: At least 1907 when they erected a building in Providence until at least 1931 (Rainwater)
- Founded: James Doran
- Location: Providence, RI
- Listed in a 1920 state of RI factory inspection report.
- Information kindly provided by Kathy Thornton, granddaughter of James Doran.
DONCASTER — Rutherfordton, NC — 1931 to present
- Mark: Doncaster Courtesy Pat Hamm
- Notes: Founded in 1931 as Doncaster Collar and Shirt Co. by S.B. Tanner, Jr. In 1935 they transformed the shirt patterns into shirtwaist dresses.
- Sold through home consultants, with jewelry as a part of their line.
DONNA – NY
- Mark: Donna 1946
- Mark: Costume Jewelry by Donna 1946
- Note: These were marks of the David Grad Co. of NYC.
Donna Karan — NY — c. 1980s to present
- Mark: Photo courtesy justabunchofwildflowers.
DOROTHY BAUER — See BAUER, DOROTHY
DORSONS — D. ORNSTEIN & SONS CORP. — 1922 (patent found) to at least 1950 NY, NY
- Mark: Dorsons
- Mark: DO Creations
- Mark: DO
- Mark: Dorsons Sterling Silver Photo courtesy Nicole Goodwin.
- Mark: Dorson Sterling Photo courtesy Nicole Goodwin.
- Mark: dorsons 1/20 12K GF Photo courtesy JoAnn Crampton
- Mark: Jubilee
- Notes: Ad from 1946 for 12kt gold-filled jewelry $3.00 — $50.00
DOTTENHEIM, MARK — New York, NY
- Mark: Jeanne first used in 1919 for pearl jewelry.
DOTTY SMITH — See SMITH, DOTTY
DOUBLE EXPOSURE — See CARNEGIE
DRAGONLADY EARRINGS COMPANY — 1983 to present, Bruce Horton; Dallas, TX
- Mark: Dragon Lady on a soldered tag.
DREAMBOAT — See CORO
DRGM — German for patented
- Mark: DUANE Photo courtesy ID: justabunchawildflowers.
- Notes: Probably c. 1950 & short time in business according to Rezazadeh.
DU BARRY BAG — See NAPIER
DUBARRY F.A. — DUBARRY FIFTH AVENUE — NYC
- Mark: DuBarry F.A. Photo courtesy David Pritchett.
- Mark: “D”, DuBarry, “FA” in a shield under a crown Photo courtesy ID: justabunchawildflowers.
- Notes: Pin and earrings on original card Courtesy Andrea Maloney
- Much of their jewelry was only marked with a paper hangtag, much like the blue mark above. The company probably went out of business by the late 1960s or early 1970s.
- “My neighbor across the street was their accountant when I was a little girl. On one of my first trips to NYC I bought a Goldette style slide bracelet from them. It probably was made for them by Goldette.” Information courtesy Robin Deutsch’s childhood memories.
DU JAY — 1934-1972
- Mark: Du Jay Photo courtesy Robin Deutsch
- Notes: Founded by Jules Hirsch & Jacques H. Leff as a division of Hirsch & Leff–makers of fine jewelry. Dujay is considered rare.
DUBL-LOCK see FORSTNER — FORSTNER CHAIN CORP
DUCHESS — See H. & S. ORIGINALS
- Mark: Photo courtesy Gail Gupton
DUETTE — See CORO
DVF— See VON FURSTENBERG, DIANE
DVJ — See DAVINCI JEWELRY
DWECK, STEPHEN — 1981 to present (2019)
- Mark: Script signature Courtesy Linda Jo
- Mark: Photo courtesy Erik Yang.
DYNASTY — See MARVELLA
PAT SEAL: research files
DOTTY STRINGFIELD: research files
BOBYE SYVERSON: research files.
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AMERICAN JEWELRY MANUFACTURERS by Dorothy T. Rainwater
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COLLECTING COSTUME JEWELRY 101 By Julia Carroll
COLLECTING COSTUME JEWELRY 202 By Julia Carroll
COLLECTING RHINESTONE COLORED JEWELRY by Maryanne Dolan
COPPER ART JEWELRY by Burkholz and Kaplan
COSTUME JEWELRY A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK AND GUIDE by Fred Rezazadeh
COSTUME JEWELRY (2nd Ed.) by Harrice Simons Miller
EUROPEAN DESIGNER JEWELRY by Ginger Moro
INSIDE THE JEWELRY BOX By Ann Pitman
LUCILLE TEMPESTA: owner-publisher of the Vintage Fashion & Costume Jewelry Magazine
MASTERPIECES OF COSTUME JEWELRY by Ball and Torem
MID-CENTURY PLASTIC JEWELRY By Susan Klein
MIRIAM HASKELL JEWELRY by Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff
OLD JEWELRY by Jeanenne Bell
WARMAN’S JEWELRY 2nd Ed. by Christie Romero
WARMAN’S JEWELRY 3rd Ed. by Christie Romero
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