Researching Costume Jewelry History, Companies and Signatures -“G”August 24, 2019
Researching Costume Jewelry History, Companies and Signatures -“I”August 24, 2019
Costume Jewelry Collectors Int’l
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RESEARCHING COSTUME JEWELRY
originally created and published by Dotty Stringfield on IllusionJewels.com
Jewelry History – Jewelry Research – Jewelry Marks – Jewelry Signatures – Jewelry Articles – Jewelry Galleries
COSTUME JEWELRY MARKS – H*
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“H” inside a heart — See HART and see HEDISON
“H” in a triangle — See HERMANN
Heart shape (symbol) with “line” arrows pointing to it from either side – See PROVIDENCE STOCK COMPANY
HA & Co. — HORTON, ANGELL, AND CO., Attleboro, — MA — founded in 1870.
H.A. & S. — See HENRY ABRAHAM & SONS
H.G. & S. — See HENRY GRIFFITHS AND SONS LTD.
H & H inside an eagle — See HILBORN-HAMBURGER, INC. — NY, NY — 1943 to at least 1988.
- Mark: H & H
H & H with a star — HAMILTON & HAMILTON, JR. — Providence, RI.
H & O — See HARVEY AND OTIS
H. & S. ORIGINALS — at least 1950
- Mark: H & S Originals
- Mark: Duchess mark seen in 1956 ad
- Crystal ad 1956
- Pearls ad 1960
- Have ads 1950, 1951
- Mark: Oval tag with “Stanley Hagler” contoured to the oval shape — Stanley at the top & Hagler at the bottom.
- Mark: Stanley Hagler Photo courtesy Cathy Gordon.
- Mark: DeMario/Hagler — see info below Photo courtesy Annette Forslund.
- Mark: Oval tag with Stanley on top and N.Y.C. below– both in a curve — with Hagler in between in a straight line.
- Stanley Hagler’s brother Ernest sent a tag with this last known authentic mark to Pat.
- Hagler and DeMario considered a partnership, but it didn’t happen. Some stock of DeMario findings were left with Hagler and he would occasionally use them. (Info courtesy Mark Mercy)
- Both Mark Mercy and Ian St. Gielar made jewelry with Stanley Hagler N.Y.C. marks after 1996. Learn more about how to identify them through this article by Pamela Wiggins Siegel: Identifying Stanley Hagler, Ian St. Gielar and Mark Mercy Costume Jewelry Using Marks.
Updated 5/21/21 by Pamela Wiggins Siegel
HALBE — 411 5th Ave, New York — from at least 1950 to 1963 based on ads
- Mark: HALBE Photo courtesy Beth Rowlands.
HALLAM-RICE CO. — c. 1912
- Mark: H – R Co. Photo courtesy Linda Lange.
- Notes: Listed in a 1920 state of RI factory inspection report.
HALEYANNE JEWELRY, Seattle, WA — 1985 – present
- Founded by Haley Land and Leanne Clarke in 1985. Ceramic dog pins have been their specialty since 1994.
HAND-MADE — See CORO
HANDARBEIT — German for hand made Courtesy Polly Curtiss
HAR — HARGO CREATIONS OF NY — 1955 to about 1968
- Mark: HAR — around 1956 Photo courtesy Linda Lange.
- Some Design Dates:
15 November 1957: Daisy pin GU28974
21 April 1959:
559B Dragon Design: bracelet GP20919
599E Dragon Design: earrings GP20918
599N Dragon design: Necklace GP21719
599P Dragon design: Pin GP21030
(I firmly believe that the “Cobra Set” dates from the same year, as do the non figural pieces using the same translucent stones known as “dragon teeth”)
21 April 1959:
595B Far eastern look: bracelet GP21028
595N Far eastern look: Necklace GP21029
595E Far eastern look: Earrings GP21027
595P Far eastern look: Pin GP21030
(“Far Eastern” probably refers to the “genie, sorceress, turbaned heads, etc”)
1 May 1960:
329P Chinese group. Full Chinese figure GP25909
330F Chinese group.Chinese face and body pin GP25905
331P Chinese face and bust pin.GP25907
332E Mandarin bust earrings. GP25908
333E Chinese face and bust earrings. GP25906
999P Insect pin. GP56016.
No more copyrighted designs until 15 September 1967:
- Some Design Dates:
- Notes: Founded by Joseph Heilbronner and Edith Levitt.
- Probably many Har cheaper pieces belong to the same period.
- Expansion Ltd. (Leo Geller) manufactured some of Har’s stock.
- No more information after 15 September 1967.
- We have found NO connection between ART and HAR. If anyone has proof of such a connection, please let us know.
- Information kindly provided by Roberto Brunialti, co-author with Carla Ginelli Brunialti of A Tribute to America and American Costume Jewelry.
- Art & Industry, 1935-1950 and Susan Klein, author of Mid-Century Plastic Jewelry and numerous articles on jewelry.
- Read “The Mystery of HAR article by Dotty Stringfield
- Mark: “H” within a heart Courtesy Barbara Diddle
- Mark: Mona Lisa
HARVEY AND OTIS JEWELRY — Providence, RI — 1884 till at least 1920.
- Mark: H&O Photo courtesy Plenty O’Jewels@Rubylane.
- Mark: “H” superimposed over “O” — several styles
- Mark: H-O
- Notes: Listed in a 1920 state of RI factory inspection report.
- Founded in 1884 by HENRY HARVEY AND SAMUEL OTIS.
HARWOOD — See W. & H. JEWELRY CO.
HASKELL, MIRIAM — 1926 — present
- No jewelry marked with permanent signature from 1926 through c. 1947. Irregular use of signature application from c. 1947-1949.
- Mark: Black and gold paper hangtag used during unsigned period, though dates of use have not been identified. Example is from WWII-era.
- Mark: Miriam Haskell impressed, round mark, 1947-1949 Courtesy The Collecting Miriam Haskell Group
- Mark: Haskell horseshoe plaque is earliest signature, used mainly 1948-1950, but still in company inventory today
- Mark: Oval hang-tag with stamping showing through to the backside, use began around 1950-1951
- Mark: Oval plaque soldered to filigree, still in use today
- Mark: Miriam Haskell impressed Courtesy Sheri Weiss of Collecting Miriam Haskell Group
- Mark: Raised stamped signature used on necklace and bracelet clasps; indented stamped signature — rare.
- Mark: Seen on earrings
Mark: On earrings
- Mark: Contemporary mark with number for Limited Ed. series
- Mark: Dove was used into the 1970’s as a clasp and as decoration on pins. Back
- Turtle was also used as a clasp
- Beginning around 1979 the oval hang-tags were flat on the back
After Frank Hess retired from the Miriam Haskell company he joined forces with Josef Morton Glasser and formed the Morton Hess company.
He left the company in 1963 and went to work for Kramer and formed a line call Amourelle.
Chatani Pearls LTD. by Haskell has nothing to do with the Miriam Haskell company.
Read an article on Miriam Haskell by Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff.
Information and pictures courtesy of Cathy Gordon & Sheila Pamfiloff, authors of Miriam Haskell Jewelry
For more information and pictures of Haskell jewelry visit Cathy Gordon’s Haskell Pages
HASKELL TODAY (information from Cathy Gordon)
“M. Haskell” is used for the company’s current, but less expensive jewelry.
Trendy Haskell jewelry is marketed under “Jewels of Haskell” and “Haskell”.
The lines that are faithful to what we consider Miriam Haskell jewelry are marked with the traditional “Miriam Haskell” mark. Due to the large number
of fakes, the Haskell Company is now issuing a certificate of authenticity with its high-end pieces.
Haskell continues to use findings and beads that may have been purchased years ago (including the horseshoe signature if it is on a filigree that fits
a piece they make).
**The Haskell Jewels of today is a rapidly growing company, which designs and distributes an extensive private label program for major retailers.
Haskell Jewels also produces jewelry for other famous lines:
Haskell launched J. Lo by Jennifer Lopez jewelry in 2003.
Haskell launched Christopher Radko jewelry in early 2005, a holiday jewelry collection.
Betsey Johnson jewelry was launched in 2006.
Fall 2007 brought the debut of O Oscar, an Oscar de La Renta company.
Spring 2008 will see the re-launch of Kenneth Cole jewelry by Haskell Jewels.
The luxury Miriam Haskell line, is still handmade in their New York City studio.
**Information from Miriam Haskell website.
HATTIE CARNEGIE — See CARNEGIE — 1918 — 1976
HAYWARD — 1851 — present
- Mark: Hayward 1/20 12K Gold Filled Courtesy Laurel Ciotti
- Mark: Foil paper tag Courtesy Laurel Ciotti
- Established in 1851 and has changed hands over the years.
- Last owned by Amtel Corp. and known for gold, gold filled and silver jewelry.
HEDISON MFG. CO — Providence, RI — 1909-1985
- Mark: “Hedy” was their brand name, Photo RCJ
- Mark: Distinctive heart shape with an “H” inside – 1964 Photo courtesy Linda Lange Courtesy RCJ
- Mark: “H” within a heart with “edy” outside the heart – 1959 Photo courtesy Sheree
- Mark: “H” within a heart with “edy” outside the heart Photo RCJ
- Notes: Marks were used on boxes and jewelry, including gold filled & sterling pendants. Not all jewelry was marked.
- Founded by Harry D. Hedison, Sr.
- Harry, Sr. died in 1954; sons Harry, Jr. & H. David continued the business until 1985.
- Information kindly provided to Dotty Stringfield (8-03) by H. David Hedison & Corinne Heditsian.
Read full article on Hedison jewelry by Dotty Stringfield.
- Mark: Jaycraft — August, 1946. Photo courtesy David Pritchett.
HELLER, L & SONS — NY — at least 1904 through 1954
- Mark: La Tausca Pearls seen in 1915 Albert Walker jewelry catalog Courtesy Nona Grampp.
- Notes: Became Heller-Deltah, which failed in 1956.
- La Tausca division was bought by Arlan Jewelry Co., Inc.
HELLER DELTAH CO. — See HELLER, L & SONS
HELLER-SPERRY INC. — NY — c. 1947
HENKEL & GROSSE — Pforzheim, Germany — 1907 — 2006
- Mark: Grosse Photo courtesy Matt & Patti Ribarich.
- Mark: Superimposed “H” over “G” in an elongated diamond shape — until c. 1938.
- Mark: Superimposed “H” over “G” in a rounded corner square shape — until c. 1955
- Mark: Crown over stylized “G” — until c. 1979
- Mark: Crown over Script “HG” — until c. 1953
- Mark: Grosse’ ®
- Mark: Chr. Dior with the date in an oval tag was used for jewelry made for Dior.
- Founded in 1907 by Heinrich Henkel and Florentine Grossé in Pforzheim, Germany.
- Manufactured jewelry for Schiaparelli and Jeanne Lanvin before WWII. Possibly Lanvin Germany pieces after WWII but needs further research.
- Beginning in 1955, Henkel & Grossé made four collections a year for Christian Dior under an exclusive worldwide license that lasted 50 years. Some later Henkel & Grossé pieces were made in the United States and in Asia.
- The company was operated by the Grossé family for four generations. In 2006, it became part of the Dior group.
- Several Grossé stores were located in Asian countries as of 2015.
- Some info courtesy Ginger Moro: “European Designer Jewelry”.
- Some info courtesy Vivienne Becker: “100 Years of Passion for Grossé and Bijoux Christian Dior: Henkel & Grossé Jewellery”.
Updated 4/19/2020 by Pamela Wiggins Siegel
HENRY ABRAHAM & SONS — Southampton, England
HENRY GRIFFITHS AND SONS LTD. — Birmingham, England
HENRY, CAROL — Dallas, Tx, contemporary designer
- Mark: Carol Henry Designs 925 Courtesy Erik Yang
HERMANN, F. A., — Framingham, MA — 1908 — at least 1977
- Mark: “H” in a triangle Courtesy Sheri Weiss
- Mark: “H” in a triangle Sterling
- Mark: Silvercryst
HERVE VAN DER STRAETEN — See VAN DER STRAETEN
HETTEL — C.R. HETTEL JEWELRY CO. — St. Louis, MO. — 1890 – ?
- Mark: Hangtag reads Jewelry by Hettel / Aristocracy of Style Since 1890 Photo courtesy Carolyn Reynolds
- Notes: Founded by Charles R. Hettel in 1890.
HI-RISE — See MARVELLA
HIC, MICHAEL — c. June 1967
HI JINKS BY CORO — See CORO
HILLCRAFT — Rockville, IN — c.1950 – 1990s
- Mark: Hillcraft Photo courtesy of Linda Chapple.
- Mark: Hillcraft jewelry box Photo courtesy Linda Chapple .
- Note4s: Some workers were patients of the Indiana Tuberculosis Sanitorium.
- Originally owned by Alan Chamberlain, Bill May and Charlie Ellis
- Was only sold through clubs and organizations.
- Charlie Ellis either sold out or left to start his own jewelry company in Greencastle which was called Castlecraft.
- Some information provided to Nancy by Evelyn Swaim and Julia Baker.
- Information provided to Wendy Kelly and Nancy Hopper-Cady by Carolyn of the Rockville, IN, public library.
- See an article on Hillcraft by Nancy Hopper-Cady .
- Mark: Photo courtesy Alice Handley-Isaksen
- Dates: contemporary designer
- Founded: By Kate Hines in Boston, MA
HINGECO VANITIES, INC. — Providence, RI — c.1950
- Mark: Trueart
- Mark: True-Art 10kt Courtesy Jennifer (wheat*from*the*chaff)
- Mark: HOB – first used in 1965; registered in 2005; still live in 2008Photo courtesy Don James Courtesy US Trademark site.
- Dates: ? until present
HOBCO — See HOUSE OF BORVANI
HOBE’ CIE LIMTED ( in USA) — Around 1920 – c.1995 (Hoe-bay)
- Mark: Before 1868 *
- Mark: 1868 *
- Mark: 1883-1902 *
- Mark: 1903-1917 *
- Mark: 1918-1932 *
- Mark: Triangle was used 1933-1957:
- Sterling was used 1941-1947: Photo courtesy Erik Yang.
- Mark: Photo courtesy Erik Yang.
- Mark: Hobe 1965 Photo courtesy Jennifer of Jennifer Lynn’s Timeless Jewelry.
- Mark: With copyright mark 1958-1983: *
- Mark: Hobe’ NY 1/20 14K Photo courtesy Jennifer of Jennifer Lynn’s Timeless Jewelry.
- Mark: HOBE 14K on Sterling
- Mark: HOBE’ Photo courtesy Linda Chapple.
- Mark: Hobe’ — from US Trademark site; first used in 1926, registered in 1981
- RESEARCH NOTES: According to Jim Katz of jewelrypatents.com, all Hobe necklace patents form the 40’s have foldover snap, box, or spring ring clasps – no hooks.
- Founded by William Hobe’ around 1920, after he came to the United States from France. His father Jacques Hobe’ was a jeweler in Paris and began making costume jewelry around 1887 as Hobe’ et Cie. The first business in the United States was The Hobe’ Button Company and then came Hobe’ Cie Ltd. which crafted jewelry, according to Don Hobe’ who was the son of William. Don Hobe’s obituary online incorrectly lists him as the son of the founder of Hobe’.
- Hobe dated some of their pieces from c. 1957 – c. 1965.
- The original company founded by the Hobe family is now defunct.
- *Marks from old Hobe’ brochure, courtesy Bobye Syverson.
Updated 2/29/2020 by Pamela Wiggins Siegel
- Mark: Designs by Don Hobe’ — 2003 Photo courtesy RCJ
- Founded: Don Hobe
- Location: Jupiter, FL
HOFF-GALANT FOR HATTIE CARNEGIE — See CARNEGIE
- Mark: Roslyn Hoffman Photo courtesy Glitz & Glitter Boutique.
- Handcrafted copper
- Have ad 1952
HOGAN & BOLAS — Providence, RI — c. 1950 – present
- Mark: Hogan Bolas Courtesy Lynn P.
- Mark: Robert J. Hogan, Deborah Bolas, Handwrought, Providence, RI Courtesy Elaine Lucier
- Notes: Jewelry manufacturing company.
- Frequently combines copper and bronze into their designs.
- Founded by Robert Hogan and Deborah Bolas.
- Current owners, including Al De Santis, purchased the company in 1991.
- Company also makes items in silver.
- Mark: Hollywood Courtesy Linn Alber; Courtesy Lilly Vittetow
- Notes: Evidence points to this being a British company c.1950s, 1960s
HOLLYWOOD JEWELRY MFG. CO., INC. — NY, NY — 1936 (sold in 1978/79)
- Mark: Hollycraft — late 1940s
- Mark: Hangtag has “Hollycraft” on 1 side, “Created by Hollywood Mfg. Co. New York on the other. first used 4/48
- Began to mark dates around 1950. Photo courtesy Jo-Ann Sturko.
- Mark: Photo courtesy justabunchofwildflowers.
- Mark: Hollycraft with © after 1955 Photo courtesy Teresa Clark.
- Mark: Hollycraft with no date or ©; probably c. 1965
- RESEARCH NOTES: Not all Hollycraft jewelry was signed.
- Hollywood Jewelry was founded.by Joseph Chorbajian; Jack Hazard and Archie Chorbajian joined the company in 1939.
- Hollycraft also made jewelry for Kramer, Tammey Jewels, Pakula & Weiss.
- Joseph Chorbajian was responsible for starting the vast Christmas Tree collection. He designed jewelry until 1980.
- The company lasted about 10 years after it was sold in 1978/79.
- Thanks to Joyce Chorbajian, daughter of Joseph, for the information.
HOLLYWOOD JEWELRY PRODUCTS, INC. — c. 1939
- Mark: Ricarde of Hollywood
- Notes: Made jewelry inspired by the movie “Gone With The Wind”, according to a 1939 ad.
- Owner was Richar C. Baxt.
HOLMSEN, AKSEL — Norway
- Mark: Used until 1969: crossed tools that look like “w’s” on their sides Photo courtesy ID: justabunchawildflowers
- Mark: A.H.S. — 1969
- Notes: Aksel Holmsen Smithy founded in 1932.
- Some info courtesy Ginger Moro: “European Designer Jewelry.”
HOPE CHEST — THE HOPE CHEST CO. — Minneapolis, MN — 1960 – ?
- Mark: Hope Chest — first used 1960 Photo courtesy eclecticgramma.
- Mark: Hope Chest Courtesy RCJ
- Notes: Founded by Wayne Fields, and originally was named China Club.
- Sold jewelry and flatware through home parties.
- Relocated to NJ in 1963, at which time no further records could be found.
- Information courtesy of Sue Sheppard.
HOTS SHOTS — See TRIFARI
HOUSE OF BERLAND
- Mentioned in Nov. 1962 in a Seventeen magazine.
HOUSE OF BORVANI, — Providence, R.I.
- Mark: Large “H” with “ob” & “co” inside
- Mark: HOBCO — first used 1965
- Mark: Shield with “House of Borvani”
HOUSE OF JOY — c. Dec. 1963
- Mentioned as late as May 1964 in a Seventeen magazine.
- Mark: HSM Photo courtesy Beth Rowlands.
- Mark: Foree Hunsicker (signature) and Medalias Photo courtesy RCJ
- Mark: 925 Foree Photo courtesy Becky Sweet
- Line: Medalias
- Dates: contemporary designer
- Founded: Foree Hunsicker
- Location: Dallas, TX
- Notes: Don’t know if the jewelry is signed on each piece or just has a paper tag.
HUSAR D. — DAVID HUSAR — Czech Republic
- Makes new jewelry from vintage parts. His jewelry, that we have seen, has been made with unplated backs.
- This page has more information toward the bottom of the page.
PAT SEAL: research files
DOTTY STRINGFIELD: research files
BOBYE SYVERSON: research files.
A TRIBUTE TO AMERICA by Carla and Roberto Brunialti
AMERICAN COSTUME JEWELRY by Carla and Roberto Brunialti
AMERICAN JEWELRY MANUFACTURERS by Dorothy T. Rainwater
COLLECTIBLE COSTUME JEWELRY by Cherri Simonds
COLLECTING COSTUME JEWELRY 101 By Julia Carroll
COLLECTING COSTUME JEWELRY 202 By Julia Carroll
COLLECTING RHINESTONE COLORED JEWELRY by Maryanne Dolan
COPPER ART JEWELRY by Burkholz and Kaplan
COSTUME JEWELRY A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK AND GUIDE by Fred Rezazadeh
COSTUME JEWELRY (2nd Ed.) by Harrice Simons Miller
EUROPEAN DESIGNER JEWELRY by Ginger Moro
INSIDE THE JEWELRY BOX By Ann Pitman
LUCILLE TEMPESTA: owner-publisher of the Vintage Fashion & Costume Jewelry Magazine
MASTERPIECES OF COSTUME JEWELRY by Ball and Torem
MID-CENTURY PLASTIC JEWELRY By Susan Klein
MIRIAM HASKELL JEWELRY by Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff
OLD JEWELRY by Jeanenne Bell
WARMAN’S JEWELRY 2nd Ed. by Christie Romero
WARMAN’S JEWELRY 3rd Ed. by Christie Romero
*DISCLAIMER: As in the past, we make every effort to ensure all information contained in the RCJ pages is accurate. However, errors can occur. Neither the prior owner of RCJ, CJCI or its representatives are responsible for your use of these resources.
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