Researching Costume Jewelry History, Companies and Signatures -“D”

Costume Jewelry Collectors
Presents
an original publication by RCJ and Dorothea Stringfield

Researching Costume Jewelry Marks – D*

Jewelry History – Jewelry Research – Jewelry Marks – Jewelry Signatures – Jewelry Articles – Jewelry Galleries

Information & images on RCJ are original works of Illusion Jewels. Written permission by Costume Jewelry Collectors Int’l is needed to use any of it in any other publication, written or electronic.

D

DHT — see Dinah Hoyt Taylor

   see Curtis Jewelry Manufacturing Co.

D’eri — Ralph Scudieri
Mark:   D’eri — first used Sept. 1951  
Designer/owner was Ralph Scudieri, who designed for many companies, including Sarah Coventry.
Photo & information courtesy Pat Hamm, who spoke to Scudieri’s daughter about the company.

D’Orlan Jewellers Limited- Toronto, CA; c. 1960 – present
Mark:   D’Orlan with copyright mark      Photo courtesy Luda Tovey.
Some of their inventory was purchased by Creed of Canada in 2006.
D’Orlan was purchased by Edcar & Associates, Inc. of New York.
D’Orlan currently sells jewelry only in Canada.

DACHE, LILLY — LILLY DACHE, INC., NY, NY c. 1923–?
Mark:   Lilly Dache — first used in March 1923      Courtesy friend of RCJ.
Have an ad from April 1959

DAFRI — Toronto, Canada
Mark:   DAFRI ©
Mark:   Dafri Toronto     Courtesy Kathie Davis.

Mark:   Dafri in script     Photo courtesy Linda Jo D. Mitchell.
Mark:   DAFRI     Photo courtesy Luda Tovey.

Dainty Maid — see Stern, Louis

Dainty Miss — see Deknatel

Dakota West Designs – Albuquerque, NM – contemporary
Shube’s, Inc. founded in 1972 in Albuquerque, NM; manufactured sterling jewelry.
Shube’s & South Dakota Gold Co. merged to form Dakota West Design, Inc.
Mark:   Shube’s mark – An “S” superimposed over a “B”     Courtesy Beth Rowlands

DALSHEIM — DALSHEIM ACCESSORIES, INC., NY, NY — c. late 1930’s
Mark:   Dalsheim     Photo courtesy Barbara Talbott.

Mark:   Dalsheim  

Mark:   White Jet — first used 1939
Most of the jewelry had tags and was not signed
Have ads from 1945 – 1956
Mentioned in Vogue in 1978
Bronze jewelry

DANA of CALIFORNIA c. May 1966

DANECRAFT 1934–present — Providence, RI

Mark:   Used prior to 1945     Courtesy Cathy Gordon
Mark:   Used prior to 1945     Photo courtesy Cheri & Rocky Van Hoover.

Mark:   Used prior to 1945     Photo courtesy Tracy Green

Mark:   Danecraft 1/20-12KGF  
Mark:   Danecraft ® Sterling     Photo courtesy Beth Rowlands
Mark:   Sterling ® Danecraft     Courtesy Deb Schneider

Mark:   Danecraft Sterling      Courtesy Ann Robinson ID: 9am.
Mark:   Danecraft Sterling, Reg. U.S. Pat. Off.     Courtesy Dinah Taylor

Mark:   DANECRAFT, REG’D , C,STERLING  Courtesy Sue

Mark:   “D” on a tiny hangtag by the clasp on pearl necklaces & with a pouch that reads “Danecraft”. From Danecraft’s Fuji Seas Collection; still available, but without the “D” tag or pouch.

Danecraft makes Sterling, gold filled and jewelry made of base metals.
Victor Primavera, Sr. & James Felch founded Felch & Co. in Providence, RI in 1934, with Victor in charge of design and James in charge
of administration & sales. The mark used was “Danecraft”, sometimes with the mark “C” imposed over an “F”.
In 1945 Primavera bought out Felch and changed the company name to Danecraft, which it has remained since that time.
Jewelry marked Danecraft and the “C” imposed over an “F” would have been made prior to the buyout in 1945.
James Felch started another jewelry company after he left Danecraft, but it only operated a few years. Jewelry from this company may have been marked “Felch”.
Victor Primavera, Sr. died in 1977.
Still owned and operated by the Primavera family.
Information kindly provided to Dotty Stringfield (7-1-04) by Victor Primavera, III, CEO of Danecraft.

Dapper see FORSTNER–FORSTNER CHAIN CORP

Darlene Jewelry Mfg. Co.

  • Mark: Darlene 1998; cancelled 2006    Courtesy Belinda Myers
  • Mark: Main Street U.S.A. – 1994; cancelled 2002
  • Dates: at least 1993 – present
  • Location: Pawtucket, RI
  • Notes: The name “Darlene” does not identify a living individual

Dason — see Davidson & Sons

Date Timer — see MARVELLA

Daub, Andreas

  • Mark: A*D     Courtesy Karen Bird
  • Dates: c. 1875 until present
  • Founded: By Andreas Daub
  • Location: Pforzheim, Germany
  • Notes: Still managed by family members.

Dauplaise, Carol — 1978 to present
Mark:   

Worked for Haskell from 1959 until 1978
She left Haskell to form her own jewelry company, which is still in business.
She sells jewelry under her own name, and makes jewelry for other companies.

DAUS, HEIDI — New York — comtemporary designer
Mark:   Heidi Daus for Jim Walters  
Mark:   Heidi Daus (with the “for Jim Walters” scratched out)
Some earlier pieces not marked.
Courtesy of Brenda Forman.

David Anderson — see Anderson

DAVID, B. — 1945-1993
Mark:   B.David     Photo courtesy Gail Gupton     Photo courtesy Pam Brooks.

Mark:   “B. David” inside an oval frame
Mark:   “b. david” inside a divided square    Photo courtesy Linda Chapple.
Mark:   “bd” arranged diagonally

Do not confuse with Ben David Jewelry which uses BDJ as its trademark
Debra Moreland (Paris jewelry) purchased B. David manufacturing facilities (only) in 1993.
Thanks to Bonnie Rasche for some of this info.

David Grau — see Grau, David

DaVinci Jewlry

  Mark: DaVinci    Photo courtesy eclecticgramma

  • Location: Providence, RI

DAVIS, ALMA
Huge shoulder duster earrings.
Have ad March 1966

DaVinci Creations, Inc.

  • Mark: Perma Clad — 1965
  • Mark: Perma Gold — 1965 (assigned to Capri Jewlery, Inc. by DaVinci)
  • Mark: Leonardo — 1965
  • Dates: c. 1960’s to at least 1981
  • Location: Providence, RI

DaVinci Jewelry

  • Mark: DVJ — 1999
  • Dates: c. 1999
  • Location: Pawtucket, RI

Davison & Sons, NY c. 1930’s
Mark:   Dason     Courtesy Lilly Vittetow

DAY and NIGHT — see CORO

Deauville — see — J. R. Wood & Sons Co. —

DEBRA MORELAND –see Moreland

Debutante (italics) — see CORO

De Croom, Paul — c. Jan. 1967
Feather Jewelry.

de FIRENZE c. Nov. 1960

DEJA COSTUME JEWELRY, INC. 1939 — 1941 — see REJA
Pronunciation: DAY_ZHA (like Zsa Zsa Gabor)

DEKNATEL — J.A. Deknatel & Son Inc., NY, NY c. 1904 — to at least 1952
Mark:   Deknatel in oval “necklace” — 1948
Mark:   The Deknatel Quality
Mark:   DeKnatel Sterling     Courtesy ID ttz21

Mark:   Indestructible ( imitation pearls)
Mark:   Initials “JAD & s” overlapped inside a circle
Mark:   Lily White (simulated Pearls)
Mark:   Dainty Miss — 1940
Have 1952 ad

de Lillo, Wm / Robert Clark 1967-?  

DE LIZZA and ELSTER, New York 1947– 1990; present–see info below
COMPANY:   “Juliana Original” was a name DeLizza & Elster sold under beginning in 1967, and which was active through 1968. A paper hang tag was used on the jewelry. Juliana was named after Frank DeLizza’s mother.  However, this style of jewelry was always carried by DeLizza and Elster.
  Photo courtesy Mary Baker; ID rockygems.     “Juliana Original” “Fashion Earrings Hand Set” on earring card    Photo courtesy Mary Baker; ID rockygems.
See earrings on original card, courtesy Ellen

Mark:   “Jewelry by DeLizza” paper hang tag — 2003
Mark:   “Elegant” hang-tag      Photo courtesy Tara Mauldin.
Made jewelry marked with “Gloria” hang-tags for Gloria Jewelry — owner Ruth Stern
Made jewelry marked with “Tara” hang-tags and “Tara” mark for Fred Lubwold, 5th Avenue, NY  (see Tara)

Designers & manufacturers of fine costume jewelry for 100’s of companies: Accessocraft, Albert Weiss, Alexis Kirk, Ann Hand, Adrienne Vittadini, Banana Republic, Ballet Jewels, Alice Caviness, Ciro, Celebrity, Capri, Coro, Carol Duplaise, Eisenberg, Garne, House of Ivana, Hobe’, House of Schrager, Herbert Stehberg, Inc. (Dallas, Tx), Home Shopping Club, Hattie Carnegie, Jacobson’s Department stores, Kenneth J. Lane,Kramer, Karu, Mimi Di N, 1928 jewelry, Park Lane, Pakula, Sarah Coventry, Seligman Jewelry, Talbot’s, Ann Taylor, Victoria’s Secret, Lillian Vernon, Walt Disney World, YSL & more.
D&E also made “cobra” belts for Omega, Gare, Calderon and Hobe’.

Founded by William DeLizza & Harold Elster in NYC

Frank DeLizza, son of William, is currently offering jewelry in some of their original designs.
Info courtesy Cheri Van Hoover.

DELROY – see Royal Bead

Deltah, Inc.
Made artificial pearls, still in business as of 1988.

DELTAH PEARLS — established in 1892 by M.J. Karpeles — see Imperial Pearl for current information
Mark:   Deltah first used in 1934
Mark:   Hang tag on pearls  front     back  

Purchased by L. Heller — c. 1900.
Became Heller-Sperry in the 1950’s, when Heller merged with Sperry Corp..
Sold to Tevia, Gilbert and Elliott Sachs in the 1960’s and was renamed Pearls by Deltah.
Purchased by the Bazar Group in 1971.
L. Heller used many trademarks, so probably was a wholeseller.
Have an ad from 1949

DEMARIO, ROBERT, NY, NY 1945-1965
Mark:   DeMario     Courtesy Cindy Amirkhan.

Mark:   DeMario
Mark:   DeMario NY      Photo courtesy Cathy Gordon.
Mark:   Another DeMario NY      Photo courtesy Cathy Gordon.
Mark:   DeMario in script      Photo courtesy Cheri & Rocky Van Hoover.
Mark:   DeMario inside an oval     Courtesy Lynne McNabb Conner
Mark:   Robert deMario N.Y.C.     Courtesy Doreen Harrington

Mark:   Hagler for DeMario — Vogue March 1966
Mark:   DeMario/Hagler — see info below
  Photo courtesy Annette Forslund.
Hagler and DeMario considered a partnership, but it didn’t happen. Some stock of DeMario findings were left with Hagler and he would occasionally use them. (Info courtesy Mark Mercy)
Have Vogue ads from 1957, 1958, 1964

Denbe’ — see Denberg, J.J.

Denberg, J.J. — N.Y., N.Y. — from at least 1950 to 1954
Mark:   Denbe’     Courtesy Becky Sweet

Denning, Kaye — 1960’s – ?
Mark:   K. Denning     Courtesy Carol Neitzel
Mark:   Denning
Independent artist who created enameled jewelry.
Bovano [still in business] of Cheshire, CT contacted her to do designs for them in late 1960’s & early 1970’s.
She created her own designs & sold them through retail outlets.    By 1980, she was no longer making jewelry.

DeNICOLA — Jerry DeNicola, Inc., NY, Ny — c. 1957–1970
Mark:   DeNicola     Photo courtesy of Gail Gupton
Mark:   DeNicola ©   

Mark:   The Real Look — 1962
Mark:   Young America — 1964
Have Vogue ad–1957

Deponiert or DEP – means registered

Déposé – French for patented

Desert Rose Trading Co. — Albuquerque, NM
Mark:      1992   Courtesy Plenty O’Jewels.

DeROSA–founded by Ralph DeRosa, NY, NY 1934–1970
Mark:   DeRosa
Mark:   R.DeRosa      Photo courtesy Beth Rowlands.

Mark:   DeRosa Designed Jewels — 1946
His daughters Elvira (Vera) & Teresa, along with their mother Virginia ran the company after 1942.
Sterling was used from 1942–1949.
Have ads from 1946, 1947

DESBRUERES, EVELYNE c. Aug. 1967

Designs From The Deep — Stephanie Dew & husband Larry Petrash, Mt. Vernon, NY — c. 1986
Mark:    D. F. T. D.     Courtesy Carmen – ID seelly

Handmade decoupage & enameling over copper items.

DEUTSCH, THELMA c. 1980 — 1995
Mark:   Thelma Deutsch      Photo courtesy Bobye Syverson
Mark:        RCJ

Deve, Claire — Paris
Mark:   Claire Deve Paris     Courtesy Mary Ann Docktor-Smith
Designer working or selling in London in the 1980’s.

DEWEES
Mark:   Dewees
Styles look like c. 1930’s-1940’s.

DFA — see DuBarry

DIAMONBAR — Wachenheimer Bros., Inc., Providence, RI — c.1907–to at least the mid 1930’s
Mark:   Diamonbar
Mark:   Diamonbar Sterling      Photo courtesy Robin Deutsch

Diana — see Krementz

Dinah Hoyt Taylor – 1998 – present
Mark:      
Mark:      
Mark:      
Dinah was a fabrics & clothing designer from 1970-1998.
She has created jewelry in silver, brass and copper from 1998 to present.
Her designs can be found on her website Capricious Crowns.

Diane Von Furstenberg — see Von Furstenberg

DIONNE COLE — see Cole, Dionne

DIOR, CHRISTIAN — est. Maison Dior in 1948 — present
Designers/manufacturers of Dior jewerly include:
Dior Costume Jewelry mentioned in 1948 Vogue.
Mark:   Mitchell Maer for Dior 1952 until 1956
Mark:   Christian Dior by Kramer 1950’s     Photo courtesy Jennifer from Jennifer Lynn’s Timeless Jewelry.

Mark:   Made In Germany for Christian Dior
  Photo courtesy Erik Yang.
Mark:   Christian Dior — Henkel and Grosse of Germany –usually dated
Mark:   Perles “Eau Douce” by Christian Dior — paper tag
Mark:   Chr. Dior     Photo courtesy Barbara Talbott.

Mark:   Dior Gold Filled   
Mark:        Courtesy Becky Sweet

Mark:   1973 Chr. Dior Germany     Courtesy Lorna at Jewelry Addiction

Other designers were Josette Gripoix & Robert Goossens
Christian Dior died in 1957
Company still in business today (2002)

Ditzel, Nanna — see Georg Jensen

DKNY — see Karan, Donna

DOCTOR DRESS — c. 1930’s -1940’s
Mark:     Courtesy of Mickie Dease.

DODDS (DODDZ) c. 1950’s — out of business
Mark:   DODDS
Mark:   Doddz    
The mark is not always legible.

Dolly Madison — see MARATHON

Dominique – at least 2002 until 2011
Mark:   Dominique      Courtesy Carolyn Davis
Dominic de Tora made Dominique jewelry until he retired in 2011 at age 88. At some point he worked for Eisenberg and Weiss.

Don Hobe’ — see Hobe’, Don

Don-Lin — 1972 till present (2009) Providence RI
Mark:        Courtesy Deb Schneider
Founded by Donald and Linda St. Angelo; Donald passed away in 2006.

DONALD STANNARD — see Stannard, Donald

Doran Jewelry Company

  Mark: Doran    Photo courtesy Debbie and Pat – Sisters Together

  • Dates: At least 1907 when they erected a building in Providence until at least 1931 (Rainwater)
  • Founded: James Doran
  • Location: Providence, RI
  • Listed in a 1920 state of RI factory inspection report.
  • Information kindly provided by Kathy Thornton, granddaughter of James Doran.

Doncaster – Rutherfordton, NC — 1931 to present
Mark:   Doncaster     Courtesy Pat Hamm
Founded in 1931 as Doncaster Collar and Shirt Co. by S.B. Tanner, Jr.
In 1935 they transformed the shirt patterns into shirtwaist dresses.
Sold through home consultants, with jewelry as a part of their line.

Donna – NY
Mark:   Donna 1946
Mark:   Costume Jewelry by Donna 1946
These were marks of the David Grad Co. of NYC.

Donna Karan — NY — c. 1980’s to present
Mark:      Photo courtesy justabunchofwildflowers.

Dorothy Bauer– see Bauer, Dorothy

DORSONS — D. Ornstein & Sons Corp. – 1922 (patent found) to at least 1950 NY, NY
Mark:   Dorsons
Mark:   DO Creations
Mark:   DO
Mark:   Dorsons Sterling Silver     Photo courtesy Nicole Goodwin.

Mark:   Dorson Sterling     Photo courtesy Nicole Goodwin.

Mark:   dorsons 1/20 12K GF     Photo courtesy JoAnn Crampton

Mark:   Jubilee
Ad from 1946 for 12kt gold-filled jewelry $3.00 — $50.00

DOTTENHEIM, MARK — New York, NY
Mark:   Jeanne first used in 1919 for pearl jewelry.

Dotty Smith — see Smith, Dotty

Double Exposure — see CARNEGIE

Dragonlady Earrings Company — 1983 to present, Bruce Horton; Dallas, TX
Mark:   Dragon Lady on a soldered tag.  

Dreamboat — see CORO

DRGM – German for patented

Duane
Mark:   DUANE
  Photo courtesy ID: justabunchawildflowers.
Probably c. 1950 & short time in business according to Rezazadeh.

Du Barry Bag — see Napier

DuBarry F.A. — DuBarry Fifth Avenue — NYC
Mark:   DuBarry F.A.     Photo courtesy David Pritchett.
Mark:   “D”, DuBarry, “FA” in a shield under a crown     Photo courtesy ID: justabunchawildflowers.

Pin & Earrings on original card   Courtesy Andrea Maloney

Much of their jewelry was only marked with a paper hangtag, much like the blue mark above.
Probably went out of business by the late 1960’s or early 1970’s.
“My neighbor across the street was their accountant when I was a little girl.   On one of my first trips to NYC I bought a Goldette style slide bracelet from them. It probably was made for them by Goldette.”   Information courtesy Robin Deutsch’s childhood memories.

DU JAY — 1934 –1972
Mark:   Du Jay    Photo courtesy Robin Deutsch
Founded by Jules Hirsch & Jacques H. Leff as a division of Hirsch & Leff–makers of fine jewelry.
Dujay is considered rare.

Dubl-Lock see FORSTNER–FORSTNER CHAIN CORP

Duchess — see H. & S. Originals

DUBOYES
Mark:     Photo courtesy Gail Gupton

Duette — see CORO

dvf — see VON FURSTENBERG, DIANE

DVJ — see DaVinci Jewelry

Dweck, Stephen — 1981 to present (4/05)
Mark:   Script signature     Courtesy Linda Jo

Mark:        Photo courtesy Erik Yang.

Dynasty — see MARVELLA

BIBLIOGRAPHY

PAT SEAL: research files
DOTTY STRINGFIELD: research files
LUCILLE TEMPESTA: owner-publisher of the Vintage Fashion & Costume Jewelry Magazine
BOBYE SYVERSON: research files.
A TRIBUTE TO AMERICA by Carla and Roberto Brunialti
AMERICAN COSTUME JEWELRY by Carla and Roberto Brunialti
AMERICAN JEWELRY MANUFACTURERS by Dorothy T. Rainwater
COLLECTIBLE COSTUME JEWELRY by Cherri Simonds
COLLECTING COSTUME JEWELRY 101 By Julia Carroll
COLLECTING COSTUME JEWELRY 202 By Julia Carroll
COLLECTING RHINESTONE COLORED JEWELRY by Maryanne Dolan
COPPER ART JEWELRY by Burkholz and Kaplan
COSTUME JEWELRY A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK AND GUIDE by Fred Rezazadeh
COSTUME JEWELRY (2nd Ed.) by Harrice Simons Miller
EUROPEAN DESIGNER JEWELRY by Ginger Moro
INSIDE THE JEWELRY BOX By Ann Pitman
MASTERPIECES OF COSTUME JEWELRY by Ball and Torem
MID-CENTURY PLASTIC JEWELRY By Susan Klein

MIRIAM HASKELL JEWELRY by Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff
OLD JEWELRY by Jeanenne Bell
WARMAN’S JEWELRY 2nd Ed. by Christie Romero
WARMAN’S JEWELRY 3rd Ed. by Christie Romero

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by Dorothea Stringfield