Researching Costume Jewelry History, Companies and Signatures -“D”August 24, 2019
Researching Costume Jewelry History, Companies and Signatures – “F”August 24, 2019
Costume Jewelry Collectors Int’l
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RESEARCHING COSTUME JEWELRY
originally created and published by Dotty Stringfield on IllusionJewels.com
Jewelry History – Jewelry Research – Jewelry Marks – Jewelry Signatures – Jewelry Articles – Jewelry Galleries
COSTUME JEWELRY MARKS – E*
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E 5555 (example) — See BOUCHER
E.P.H. — See STERN, LOUIS
EAM — See ELGIN AMERICAN
EAM CO. — See ELGIN AMERICAN
EAR CHARMERS — See CORO
EARRITE — See BOUCHER
EBSON — See BRAUDE
EDGAR BEREBI — See BEREBI, EDGAR
EDLEE CREATIONS — NYC — at least 1949 – c. 1960’s
- Mark: Courtesy Julie Levine
- Listed in Industrial Directory of New York State 1949 and 1958 editions.
EISENBERG – c. 1935-present (2013)
- Mark: Eisenberg – first used on clothing in 1933 Courtesy RCJ (US Trademark records)
- Mark: Eisenberg Ice – first used in commerce in 1935; have not seen the mark on early jewelry, just on paper items. Courtesy RCJ (US Trademark records)
- Mark: EISENBERG ICE in typed print first used in commerce in 1942 (US Trademark records)
- Mark: Eisenberg Original—c1935–1945 Courtesy Pamela Wiggins Siegel. Courtesy Patricia Schaniel
- Mark: Eisenberg Original, Sterling Nordic Photos courtesy Blue Moon Antique Mall, Pensacola Fl. The Sterling Nordic mark and Eisenberg hang tag were on the same brooch, which was verified as a early Eisenberg by Ruth Kamke (long time Eisenberg designer) to Bobye Syverson.
- Mark: Eisenberg used Sterling from 1943 to early 1948; Sterling no longer in ads in late 1948–listed as “silver finish metals”.
- Mark: Eisenberg Original, Silver Mexico Courtesy Cathy Gordon
- Mark: Eisengerg Original in script (Mexico mark) Courtesy Bobye Syverson
- Mark: E. [script mark]–c.1942-1945–may have been used later than 1945 if space for mark was limited. Photo courtesy Jennifer Lynn’s Timeless Jewelry
- Eisenberg made limited pieces of 14k gold jewelry in 1944 — Courtesy Bobye Syverson
- Mark: E. [block print mark]–c.1942-1945 Photo courtesy Jenny Wren
- Mark: © E Courtesy Nona Grampp
- Mark: Eisenberg — same “handwritten script” as Eisenberg Original, but without the second word– mid 1940’s
- Mark: Eisenberg block letters before © was in use
Photo courtesy Jenny Wren
- Mark: Eisenberg [block letters] with copyright mark after 1955. Photo courtesy Jenny Wren.
- Marks: From 1958 to 1970 many pieces were marked, but many were not. Info from Ruth Kampe (Eisenberg designer approx. 1940 – 1972) & Bobye Syverson (Eisenberg authorized dealer in 1980’s & Eisenberg researcher)
- Mark: Eisenberg Ice [copyright mark/block letters]–1970–present Photo courtesy of Gail Gupton
- Mark: Mid 1970’s enamels were marked Eisenberg with the copyright symbol.
- Marks: In the 1980’s most were not marked. Info from Ruth Kampe Eisenberg designer approx. 1940 – 1972) & Bobye Syverson (Eisenberg authorized dealer in 1980s and Eisenberg researcher)
- Mark: Eisenberg Ice in script with a date under it was used in 1994 and 2000 for the reissued “Classic Series”.
- Eisenberg had several periods when they didn’t mark all items. Ex: from 1970 into the 1990s. Most early items made by Fallon & Kappel were marked; many pieces made by Ralph Singer Co. prior to that were not.
- The letter or number in a circle is the stone setter’s mark.
- Remember that often the Eisenberg marks overlapped in time.
- Much of the information shared his is courtesy of the late Bobye Syverson, Eisenberg collector, authorized dealer in 1980s and Eisenberg researcher.
- Ruth Kamke worked as a designer for Fallon & Kappel of New York. Fallon & Kappel manufactured all of Eisenberg’s jewelry from about 1940 through 1972 when Fallon & Kappel closed. During that time Eisenberg had jewelry made only by Fallon & Kappel, and Fallon & Kappel only made jewelry for Eisenberg.
- The first Eisenberg jewelry was manufactured by Ralph Singer Co. of Chicago, Illinois according to company records. Read Eisenberg & Ralph Signer: A Tale of Two Companies for more information.
EISENSTADT MANUFACTURING CO. — St. Louis, MO
- Mark: Bob-O-Link – since 1915 Courtesy Plenty O’ Jewels
- Mark: Photo courtesy Molly Garza
- Mark: Elgin American (script) company claims use since 1893
- Mark: EAM
- Mark: EAMCO.
- Have ad from 1951.
ELITE (script) — See CORO
ELIZABETH COOKE – contemporary artist – Franklin, TN
- Mark: Elizabeth Cooke in block letters Courtesy Elizabeth Cooke
- Mark: Elizabeth Cooke in script Courtesy Elizabeth Cooke
- Elizabeth began making jewelry in Oct. 2006; does all designing, soldering and setting stones by hand.
- Fashioncraft was founded by designer Robert Levy, David Jaffe and Irving Landsman.
- The name was changed to Robert Originals Inc.
- Robert Levy retired in 1975 and Ellen Jaffe (David’s daughter) joined the company.
- 1979 the name was changed to Ellen Designs for Robert Originals.
- 1984 it became Ellen Designs.
ELOXAL — Germany c. 1940’s — ?
- Mark: Eloxal Courtesy raefielddesigns
- Often signed Germany or West Germany.
- Very lightweight jewelry made of aluminum with special non-corrosive finish. Eloxal is the abbreviation for electrolytic oxidation of aluminum.
- Information courtesy raefielddesigns.
ELZAC — 1941 to at least 1946
- Mark: Black Magic from 1943. Photo courtesy Cheri & Rocky Van Hoover.
- Mark: Tiempo de Fiesta — collection from 1946.
- Mark: Elzac Courtesy Cathy Gordon
- Founded in 1941 by Zachary Zemby, H. Weiss, Z. Taubes & A. Oben in Los Angeles.
- Zemby left in 1945 to form his own company: Zemby & Co.
- No info beginning in early 1947.
- Specialized in cermaic, wooden and lucite costume jewelry with “Victim of Fashion” pins being their most prolific styles.
EMJ — See EMMONS
EMMONS JEWELERS, INC., Newark, NY — founded by Charles H. Stuart — Feb. 1949– March 1981
- Mark: Emmons first used in March, 1949
- Mark: Emmons; with copyright mark, after 1955
- Mark: Emmolite — Jan. 1955
- Mark: EmJ — early Emmons mark, abbreviation for Emmons Jewelers Photo courtesy Debbie Robinson.
- Mark: Ce” under a crown from original box
- Mark: “Emmons” with © above, on a small rectangular metal hangtag.
- Company was named after Stuart’s wife, Caroline Emmons.
- Emmons bought designs which they & other producers manufactured.
- Sister company of Sarah Coventry & sold at home parties.
- Stuart filed for bankruptcy in March 1981.
- Much of this information provided by the late Jonell (Emmons) Turner.
EMPIRE MADE — c. 1960
- Mark:Empire Made — mark used by British companies in Hong Kong. Photo courtesy of RCJ
- Mark:”EB” within a diamond shape Courtesy Deb Schneider
- Mark: “EB” within a diamond shape and “Sterling” Courtesy Robin Deutsch
The McKinley Tariff Act of 1891 required countries to mark items imported into the US with the country of origin. “England”, “Made in England” and “Made in Britian” have been used since that time.
- Mark: EnZell Sterling, c. 1940s Courtesy Nancy Robinson
ERICKSON BEAMON – New York, NY – 1980s to present
- Founded by husband-and-wife Erik and Karen Erickson and her friend Vicki Beamon in the 1980s.
- Make runway jewelry and retail lines. Also, had a contract for lesser jewelry sold in Target stores.
- Have collaborated with Dior, Donna Karen, Alexander McQueen and other major fashion houses.
- All their jewelry is made in their New York workshop and has a lifetime gurantee.
Entry updated 4/21/21 by Pamela Wiggins Siegel.
- Esha was a trademark for the German company Schreiber & Hiller from 1951-1957- located in Pfrozheim, Germany. No information on RANDEL has been found. (Thanks to Robin Deutsch and Kristin Rheinwald for uncovering this information.)
- Mark: ESHA Randel, West Germany (both marks found on a necklace) Courtesy Cricket Lapins
- Mark: Esha Randel Courtesy Linn Alber
ESPO-FLEX MFG., INC. — Providence, RI
- Mark: ESPO — first used in 1951 Photo courtesy BeeGee McBride
- Mark: Espo-Flex –first used in 1951
- Mark: Tag on ESPO ring Photos courtesy Lilly Vittetow.
- Mark: Eugene
- Eugene Schultz born 1911; died 1964.
- Worked in different areas of design — costume, greeting cards, fashion.
- Possibly worked for Miriam Haskell according to his nephew.
- Started Eugene Jewelry in 1952; out of business around 1962.
- Eugene Jewelry ad seen in a Jan. 1954 accessories show ad.
- All his pieces were his designs and hand made by his company.
- Information courtesy Jane Clarke of Morning Glory Antiques.
EVANS — North Attleboro, MA; c. 1920’s–at least through 1965
- Mark: Evans Courtesy ?
- Original name was D. Evans Case Co.
- Made compacts, cigarette cases, etc.
- Made jewelry from the 1920’s until at least 1965.
- Begun in Ottawa, CA around 1950 by Abraham Evenchick.
- His son’s Mark and Brian currently run the company.
- A specialty was pearls.
- Courtesy of Lee Caplan.
EXQUISITE — UK (Watson Ltd. c. 1900 till late1970’s?
- Mark: EXQUISITE — 1950’s -1960’s Courtesy ID: justabunchawildflowers Courtesy Gloria Barnhart
- This is a mark of the British company Watson Ltd. from the 1950’s — late 1970’s.
- Not all jewlery may be signed.
- Information courtesy Susan Weaver.
PAT SEAL: research files
DOTTY STRINGFIELD: research files
BOBYE SYVERSON: research files.
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COSTUME JEWELRY (2nd Ed.) by Harrice Simons Miller
EUROPEAN DESIGNER JEWELRY by Ginger Moro
INSIDE THE JEWELRY BOX By Ann Pitman
LUCILLE TEMPESTA: owner-publisher of the Vintage Fashion & Costume Jewelry Magazine
MASTERPIECES OF COSTUME JEWELRY by Ball and Torem
MID-CENTURY PLASTIC JEWELRY By Susan Klein
MIRIAM HASKELL JEWELRY by Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff
OLD JEWELRY by Jeanenne Bell
WARMAN’S JEWELRY 2nd Ed. by Christie Romero
WARMAN’S JEWELRY 3rd Ed. by Christie Romero
1922 TradeMarks of Jewelry & Kindred Trades
1934 Keystone Jewelry Trade Mark Book
*DISCLAIMER: As in the past, we make every effort to ensure all information contained in the RCJ pages is accurate. However, errors can occur. Neither the prior owner of RCJ, CJCI or its representatives are responsible for your use of these resources.
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